Oil Starvation To Turbo

[pablo 0]

Hi all, the turbo on my XU102JTE is shagged only a few months after a rebuild and Id like to make sure it doesnt happen again. Turbo Technics are saying it was down to oil starvation (although it was blowing oil out the seals) so Id like to ensure that there isnt a problem with oil supply.

 

- What can I do before refitting the turbo? Was going to ensure the oil pipe is clear from the block to the turbo.

- Once refitted is there any way to test that the oil is getting to the turbo? Or is good oil pressure enough of a sign?

 

Appreciate any advice.

[welshpug 1,657]

there's a few things that would starve the turbo of oil;

 

blocked feed pipe

 

oil surge/low oil

 

low oil pressure from worn engine bearings/worn oil pump (most likely the former on this, pug oil pumps are pretty good)

[pablo 0]

Ok was just on the phone there and it was actually oil contamination (ie swarf/carbon or something) rather than starvation so I think a couple of oil changes and flush would do the job instead. Costly exercise this £300 for a rebuild with 360 bearing and double stepped seals.

[welshpug 1,657]

Pretty cheap that!

 

I'd whip the sump off and check the engine bearings if there's any swarf and the like mentioned, you can check if there's a baffle in the sump at the same time.

 

EDIT< i wasnt sure about the baffle thing, seems the steel and alloy sumps used on the 605 and 406 had the usual trapdoor type thing in the left hand side.

Edited October 15, 2009 by welshpug

[pablo 0]

does the sump come off easy enough without taking anything else off?

[M@tt 77]

yes sump will come off, you just have to undo the 20 or so bolts

Edited October 15, 2009 by M@tt

[pablo 0]

not so bad, Ill drain the oil, pop it off and have a nose. cheers.

[jonnyturbo 3]

my quote was around £550ish including vat and postage for the 8v turbo sent and rebuilt in to a hybrid with 360degree bearing and t28 housing from cr turbos and thats the cheapest i got incase you might wana go hybrid mate. also you might want to try get a new feed pipe.

Edited October 15, 2009 by jonnyturbo

[Pob 1]

Hi all, the turbo on my XU102JTE is shagged only a few months after a rebuild and Id like to make sure it doesnt happen again. Turbo Technics are saying it was down to oil starvation (although it was blowing oil out the seals) so Id like to ensure that there isnt a problem with oil supply.

 

- What can I do before refitting the turbo? Was going to ensure the oil pipe is clear from the block to the turbo.

- Once refitted is there any way to test that the oil is getting to the turbo? Or is good oil pressure enough of a sign?

 

Appreciate any advice.

 

I know a few people who have bought Hybrid/rebuilt turbo's through Turbo Technics and every turbo that is retured to them due to problems, they put it down to oil starvation or contaminates in the oil. The engine that was supposibly caused the turbo to wear via contaminates was stripped down and nothing could be found in the oil.

 

Dan

[pablo 0]

yes I suspect Ive been fed the standard answer but I didnt actually get the work done in the first place so Im unable to say for certain what was done prior to purchase.

[mickie 3]

if crap gets into the turbo, that would push the oil out of its seals..

 

ive fitted an inline filter to my turbo, carbon builds up on the oil supply and if moved about becomes loose and ends up blocking the turbo..

 

best way of making sure the turbo is getting oil is to pull off the return pipe and run the engine..

 

it doesnt take much to block up a turbo, if you take the sump off you'll probably find f*** all

 

its also handy to have a oil gauge, see whats going on

Edited October 15, 2009 by mickie

[pablo 0]

if crap gets into the turbo, that would push the oil out of its seals..

 

yeah its a fair point, and it may be the case but still seemed a bit of a generic response. And given the small amount of time (and miles done) since the turbo was rebuilt its very bad

 

ive fitted an inline filter to my turbo, carbon builds up on the oil supply and if moved about becomes loose and ends up blocking the turbo..

 

Any more details on this mate? Might be worth doing for peace of mind.

 

best way of making sure the turbo is getting oil is to pull off the return pipe and run the engine..

 

I presume for a small time only yeah? Had considered this too but wasnt sure how long it would take to empty the sump lol!

 

its also handy to have a oil gauge, see whats going on

 

Whats one of those then? Or do you mean oil pressure gauge?

 

Thanks for the tips!

Edited October 16, 2009 by pablo

[pablo 0]

edit found this:

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=350263346437

 

or there is a bailey one too. The bailey is 1/8" BSP fitting, assuming this is the same. Just need to check if my turbo is that fitting also.

[pablo 0]

hmm interesting....

 

http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/engines-tra...oil-filter.html

[mickie 3]

yeah i used that filter, got the fittings off http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=85_248

 

euroquip is fine to use with oil, there a good write up about it on this site somewhere and yeah i mean oil pressure gauge

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info....roducts_id=2458

 

most fittings are m10x1.0 but you'll have to work out what you have.

 

does the return off the turbo not enter the sump at a high level ? i dont mean you should empty your sump, you need it full.

with the return off the turbo the oil should just come through slowly

[pablo 0]

yeah I was afraid of it gushing through the turbo and spitting 5l of oil on the floor!!!!

 

what fittings did you need mate? Did you make up a whole new oil pipe from the block to turbo?

Edited October 16, 2009 by pablo

[mickie 3]

i think the filter uses 1/8bsp fittings, male and female..

 

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/Pro...;pcode=BAITOF31

 

the fittings that come off my turbo and block will probably be different to your's, ive got a 323 gtr

 

yeah i just made the whole pipe up, cheap enough i thought

 

m10x1.0 might also be able to be forced onto the filter, theres hardly any difference in thread pitch between 1/8bsp and m10x1.0

 

i think i probably re-tapped the filter to m10x1.. loads of ways of doing it