f***ing Usless Wheel Studs

[GLPoomobile 958]

I bought a set of those wheel studs from the group buy on here a year or two back. Since then I've read other people comment that they weren't the best and you had to be careful not to strip the threads.

 

Well I've had a dodgy one on the back for about the last year. I can't remember if it was f***ed from the word go, or if it happened later on when changing a wheel. But basically, I knew it had stripped the thread inside the drum as the nut would go on OK but just wouldn't tighten up fully. Not wanting to mess with it, I just left it as it was.

 

Today, with the MOT looming, I decided to take a gamble and see if I could thread lock it in place, hoping there was at least some thread in there. So I pull the stud out to find this

 

 

The picture doesn't do it justice, but basically it is well and trully mullered

 

I'm not sure if the thread in the drum is damaged. I tried putting in an original bolt and it felt loose and wouldn't screw in at all, yet my McGaurd locking bolt went in fine, and I then put the original bolt in the hole that the McGaurd had been fitted in. So at least I'm MOTable now (thank f*** I kept the bolts rather than sell them!).

 

I also had trouble getting one of the nuts on the other day. I had to faff around for ages to get it to go on square and fit the thread. Bloody s*ite.

 

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement? As much as these have pissed me off, I can't justify the expense of replacing them with something superior as I just wouldn't see the benefit (I'd be better off just binning them and going back to bolts). So really just want to replace the one for now.

[Goliath 94]

hello

[welshpug 1,655]

Proper Peugeot/Citroen sport ones are the dogs danglies of wheel studs for anything PSA, but they cost about 4 times as much per set as the Grayston sets.

[Rippthrough 98]

I might have some better ones available shortly if anyone is interested?

[welshpug 1,655]

just remembered, someone has posted in the group buy section for some that they have got made to pugsport spec too.

 

here - http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...t=0&start=0

[philfingers 5]

you can buy the proper ones from AB motorsport. Buy one and try it. You say you can;t justify the cost of replacing them with something superior. Surely a wheel falling off would cause more damage than a set of proper wheel bolts?

[M@tt 77]

that group buy was fooking turd in hindsight!

 

chocholate studs and rusty bolts!! don't remmeber any of that being advertised

[All Praise The GTI 3]

i always ment to post about these but never got round to it. i had a set fom the group buy and the first time i used car with them on track one worked loose and wore the holes in the alloy so i have 3 or 4 fubared studs on the front and lost one of my freshly powder coated rims because the holes had ovalled!!

[Jrod 7]

I don't see the point in studs unless you need to change a wheel quickly? Rally car etc...

[All Praise The GTI 3]

makes it quicker for when you on track etc. and just less hassle really especilly changing a wheel on side of road at night and esp. when you dont have disc retaining/locating screws

[GLPoomobile 958]

You say you can;t justify the cost of replacing them with something superior. Surely a wheel falling off would cause more damage than a set of proper wheel bolts?

 

If I thought for one moment that they were bad enough that there were risk of a wheel coming off, I'd whip 'em off immediately and put the bolts back on! I've never thought they were that bad, just that the threads are really bad. I'm now starting to re-evaluate that opinion after reading All Praise The GTI's comments

 

I don't see the point in studs unless you need to change a wheel quickly? Rally car etc...

 

I've always hated trying to re-fit a wheel on a 205. Part of that probably stems from some of my cars not having the disk screws fitted, so you put the wheel on and try to turn it to match up the holes and the bloody disk spins on the hub That's not the only reason though, I just generally find it far easier fitting a wheel when there are studs fitted.

[jackherer 543]

I've had no problems with two sets I got in the group buy but a third set I got later from another supplier (also graystone ones) have been an absolute nightmare from day one, we lost the first half of a track day trying to get the road wheels off when one of the nuts disintegrated and got stuck half way off the stud. Luckily the owner of Bruntingthorpes son let us take it into one of their workshop/hanger things where we attacked it with powertools.

[boombang 2]

I've got a set and will be upgrading before the car leaves the garage (whenever that is).

 

Absolutely no confidence in them at all.

[Baz 421]

I have a set of the Graystone ones. Well, the car that had them on now has an odd number of them on...

 

If it's purely for ease of wheel fitting, why not do as i and just have one or two per wheel, and then the rest std bolts, then you know at least a couple are up tight enough!!

[GLPoomobile 958]

If it's purely for ease of wheel fitting, why not do as i and just have one or two per wheel, and then the rest std bolts, then you know at least a couple are up tight enough!!

 

I was thinking about that too. As it is I've been using 3 studs and one locking bolt per wheel, as I bought the bolts not long before the stud kit.

 

I really need to give this some thought. I'm not one to do my bolts up mega tight as it's a bug bear of mine (hate it when garages whizz them on and you can't undo them afterwards), and with thd soft thread on these I'm even less inclined to put a lot of torque on them. But then I don't want them coming loose one day!

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

I bought a set of those wheel studs from the group buy on here a year or two back. Since then I've read other people comment that they weren't the best and you had to be careful not to strip the threads.

 

Well I've had a dodgy one on the back for about the last year. I can't remember if it was f***ed from the word go, or if it happened later on when changing a wheel. But basically, I knew it had stripped the thread inside the drum as the nut would go on OK but just wouldn't tighten up fully. Not wanting to mess with it, I just left it as it was.

 

Today, with the MOT looming, I decided to take a gamble and see if I could thread lock it in place, hoping there was at least some thread in there. So I pull the stud out to find this

 

 

The picture doesn't do it justice, but basically it is well and trully mullered

 

I'm not sure if the thread in the drum is damaged. I tried putting in an original bolt and it felt loose and wouldn't screw in at all, yet my McGaurd locking bolt went in fine, and I then put the original bolt in the hole that the McGaurd had been fitted in. So at least I'm MOTable now (thank f*** I kept the bolts rather than sell them!).

 

I also had trouble getting one of the nuts on the other day. I had to faff around for ages to get it to go on square and fit the thread. Bloody s*ite.

 

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement? As much as these have pissed me off, I can't justify the expense of replacing them with something superior as I just wouldn't see the benefit (I'd be better off just binning them and going back to bolts). So really just want to replace the one for now.

All studs & nuts were fuly checked by me before I sent them out so they had no cross threads or damage, I wouldn't have sent them out if the nut didn't run full length of the stud on both ends freely.

 

I'm still using the same studs & nuts as I fitted to my car in the original group buy, yes you need to be careful when fitting the nuts back on so you don't cross thread them but looking at the picture on your post you should've got a very clear indication when starting it back in that it wasn't going in right. Did you start them by hand or just have them in a socket all the time?

 

The ones in the current group buy are OK but if you have taper seat wheels be careful because the raised shouldered part (which the graystones don't have so the nut can run over the plain part of the shank)mis to wide for some wheels & the taper nut bottoms out against it, killing the thread & nut.

 

The only problem I've had with a stud shearing was with a genuine PTS stud that was on a rear beam I got from Wurzel which sheared off flush with the hub face, new hub & studs required to fix. Not ideal the night before a trackday.

 

I torque my wheel nuts up every time & as yet even after swapping the front hubs around but keeping the same studs have yet to have one come oput once its been fitted with locktite.

that group buy was fooking turd in hindsight!

 

chocholate studs and rusty bolts!! don't remmeber any of that being advertised

Because I didn't know they would rust until after we'd bought them but as they are made more for the race / rallying people not show cars they are fine for me. The studs are fine if you don't go gorilla one them.

 

Bad mechanics blame their equipment, I've got them on mine & seeing as I arranged these group buys feel this is a dig at me for trying to help people out with them.

 

Graham.

[Daz_C 8 1 Cars]

The ones in the current group buy are OK but if you have taper seat wheels be careful because the raised shouldered part (which the graystones don't have so the nut can run over the plain part of the shank)mis to wide for some wheels & the taper nut bottoms out against it, killing the thread & nut.

 

Graham.

 

I'm certain this is only an issue with a drum setup like mine was G. As the shank on disc setup sits inside the hole of the disc.

All sorted now though

Edited October 4, 2009 by Daz_C

[tri_longer 25]

I'm perfectly happy with mine, and have no complaints.

 

I did manage to cross thread a couple of the nuts but that was my fault as I had fitted big spacers at the front and they weren't fully engaged.

[GLPoomobile 958]

I did suspect you'd take offense to this topic Graham. I'm sorry about that, but there's really no need to take it personally. You obviously organised it in good faith, and you aren't responsible for the quality of the product.

 

I'm actually surprised that you are the first to suggest I fitted them wrong! I was expecting someone to have said that sooner. I agree that looking at it, it's hard to see how it would not have felt right at time. I fitted them all by hand (cleaned the threads inside first) and wound them in by hand as far as i could, then put two nuts on torqued together to wind it in the rest of the way. I would never be ham fisted with a job like this, but of course i may still have done something wrong.

[Tom Fenton 1,540]

I've experience of two sets of nuts/studs, neither bought from the group buy via here. 1st set bought by my mate Phil from Rally Design, believe to be Graystone. Utter s*ite. Lasted less than 1 trackday on the car before coming off for the standard bolts to go back on.

 

2nd set bought via the for sale section, used, unknown make, but look like the Graystone. Fitted to my red car, had no problems with them at all, except for the nuts going rusty.

[lemmingzappa 75 1 Cars]

I know the feeling, a bolt ended up trashing the thread on one of my spacers. That was a pain.

[taylorspug 7]

Ive not had big problems with the Grayston studs or the bolts. Granted they rust, but they are cheap and as said designed more for the rally boys. Im not actually running the group buy spec nuts now, as ive had my wheels reamed so i can run sleeve nuts (again supplied by Grayston). This is due to my brake bells and small spacers meaning the wheel has no centre spigot to locate onto, and consequently i was getting alot of wheel wobble. In effect this means the studs are taking the full weight of the car. The only small issue i had was one side the nuts came loose, but after re tightening ive had no repeat of this. Ive also thread locked my studs in which has certainly helped them stay in place.

 

Worth noting too i didnt purchase any of my stuff via the group buy, as i have my own trade account with Grayston.

[Powers 13]

I bought a set recently from the group buy off Mark (madax) and they have been superb. At least now I have the confidence to drive flat out without worrying about whether the wheels will fly off! I need to get some custom ones made for my group 4 wheels so will get Ali ones made.

[petert 585]

I've been running Grayston studs for approx. 3 years without any problems. I Loctite them into the hubs and tighten to 80Nm, whether running tapered seat or open flat seat nuts.