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Veero

Handbrake Cables

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Veero

Car sat for 3 months on old handbrake cables = seized. So much so that after a quick spin round the block with the new loom the rear right brake was smoking slightly :lol:

 

Anyhoo disconnected the RH cable and got new ones. Removed the cable from the lever and the noodle from the actuator arm on the caliper but the serated metal cable end is stuck fast in the caliper? I've searched many things but the answer always is a couple of taps with a screwdriver gets them out, well not this one. The arm which the cable pulls is slightly in the way to get a full on straight smack with a lump hammer and socket. It's so stuck in there I have mullered a socket trying to get the damn thing out.

 

I have sprayed it with plenty of PlusGas tonight so hopefully that might help, but otherwise is it worth drilling it out maybe? I reckon increasing in drill size until most material is removed then it might sort of collapse and come out a bit easier.

 

Any suggestions or help greatly appreciated. Once again with the damn 205 a half hour job has turned into 2 evenings :wacko: I swear it's getting revenge for me ignoring it for 3 months.

 

Veero

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Tom Fenton

They can be a pig, smash them out is the only method I've used before. However one that could be worth trying, is feed a junior hacksaw blade though, then fasten it to the saw frame. You should then be able to carefully cut through most of that steel sleeve, which should help it release its grip from the caliper body, meaning you can then smash it out.

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Fox

Have you tried to heat it up?

 

Did you leave it with the handbrake on?

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Veero

Ah good thinking, that's how I removed the old bushing from the lower engine mount casting, gonna have to drill it out a little bigger first though, a junior hacksaw blade will never go through the hole for the cable wire.

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Anthony

They can be a pig, but usually a few decent blows with a lump hammer and a suitable blunt drift will move them - I've never (yet) failed with that method, even if my patience has been sorely tested before now. A screwdriver isn't ideal, as it will tend to cut into the soft metal rather than knocking it outwards.

 

A bit of copper slip won't harm matters when fitting the new ones to ensure that they don't sieze in place, or atleast, not as quickly/badly :wacko:

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Veero

Yes I had an 8mm socket over the end which cleared the nipple part and pushed on the wider bit but sitll it didn't move and flared the socket. Definitely going to stick a smidge of copperslip on the new ones. I'll get a suitable bit of drift from work, nothing I have is the right size. Either too big or just a sharp end which doesn't help.

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philfingers

blowtorch and then drift and hammer it out, plenty of grease on the new one!

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Veero

Well it's out and changed, but jeez what and absolute ballache. The left cable came out with 2 sharp whacks with an 8mm drift and a lump hammer, but even after soaking in Plusgas for 2 nights the RHS would not shift for love nor money.

 

For reference:

 

If you get a stuck cable end like this, don't spend hours with different sockets beating and hammering it. If it is well and truly stuck don't get a torch on it unless you have one with a very fine and controllable nozzle, I fired mine up and the flame was so indiscriminate smoke started coming off the caliper slider gaitors.

 

Anyway just get an 8mm drill and drill the core out from the rear of the car. Using an 8mm drift punch out the outer cable. Then it's a 5 minute job to unclip a junior hacksaw, stick the blade through the hole and cut 2 slots in the metal gromit thing. Then using a small punch collapse the ends in and voila, out it pops.

 

Now I don't need bricks to stop it rolling into the garage ;)

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stutto

I went through exactly the same yesterday. I would have put have put it off but the LH froze on overnight, I greased it and it was OK for a couple of days but then it froze again - the boot was perished.

 

Anyway the LH splined cable end came out with a couple of taps with a punch but the RH showed real resistance. I cut the inner and ripped away the outer, then chiseled the remains (along the line of the rear beam). To make matters worse I could not find any anti-seize so I had to settle for grease.

 

It was strange that the RH cable which I removed had a piece of thick rubber tube rather than a boot, this seems like a more robust design to me.

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MerlinGTI

One of mine tapped out but I had to burn one out with the oxy @ work. I was rebuilding the calipers at the time and they were a spare set. So not the nightmare you had, still a bit of a pain though :P

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