Sad Removal

[phil19gti 0]

Is it generally easier to remove the battery to remove the SAD?

[DamirGTI 344]

In order to remove the SAD ?

 

Yes , the battery and the AFM with the bracket + inlet pipework , that'll do for better access to the SAD

 

Damir

[lagonda 42]

Really anything you can get out of the way easily to make access easier will help. It really is a swine to get to, especially the inner bolt....& if you think that's a pig getting that undone.....wait until you try getting it back on! Good luck!

[phil19gti 0]

Really anything you can get out of the way easily to make access easier will help. It really is a swine to get to, especially the inner bolt....& if you think that's a pig getting that undone.....wait until you try getting it back on! Good luck!

 

Not done it for years so was just wondering. Mine's got a K&N filter on it so it's only really the battery that needs removing. I've got a replacemennt SAD that I've cleaned up so I've got an idea where the nuts are.

 

Any tips on cleaing the inside of it - carb cleaner or WD40?

[phil19gti 0]

Well managed to swap it tonight without removing anything in about an hour. Was quite impressed wiith myself. It's only really the bottom nut that''s a pain cos you can''t see what you're doing.

 

Started the car afterwards and the SAD seems to be working but we'll see in the morning and over the subsequent few mornings.

[phil19gti 0]

Quick question, what does the nut on the SAD do? Is it for adjustment of some sort?

[lagonda 42]

The nut is actually a lock nut. If you loosen it, you'l find the little threaded stud actually sits in a slot, allowing adjustment. The adjustment effectively alters the time the SAD takes to operate. Worth doing as the internals "age"....but make sure the shutter is well flushed with something like WD40...I didn't do this enough, so when I cleaned it out really thoroughly, I found I'd over-compensated with the adjustment.

[phil19gti 0]

The nut is actually a lock nut. If you loosen it, you'l find the little threaded stud actually sits in a slot, allowing adjustment. The adjustment effectively alters the time the SAD takes to operate. Worth doing as the internals "age"....but make sure the shutter is well flushed with something like WD40...I didn't do this enough, so when I cleaned it out really thoroughly, I found I'd over-compensated with the adjustment.

 

By "time to operate" do you mean the time it takes for the hole to open once the car is started?

[PhilCTI 1]

By "time to operate" do you mean the time it takes for the hole to open once the car is started?

 

Yes, but its the other way round, hole is open to start with, more air flow causes ecu to add more fuel, then the the hole will close as it warms, there's a good article if you click on the 205gtidrivers.com icon above and look in the articles

[phil19gti 0]

Well after running it a while with the new SAD it now doesn't really seem to be working well enough. Each morning I have to use the throttle to stop the car from cutting out for the first 20 seconds.

 

When I first replaced the SAD it was great...but only when the car had stood for a couple of hours. Anything more than that (ie overnight) and it doesn't seem to work.

 

Any suggestions?

[CosKev 16]

Well after running it a while with the new SAD it now doesn't really seem to be working well enough. Each morning I have to use the throttle to stop the car from cutting out for the first 20 seconds.

 

When I first replaced the SAD it was great...but only when the car had stood for a couple of hours. Anything more than that (ie overnight) and it doesn't seem to work.

 

Any suggestions?

 

I've put a brand new SAD on mine and its still like that first thing in the morn

 

I've also had the injectors cleaned,and all new service parts etc

 

The only thing I wonder that could affect it is the K&N induction kit

[welshpug 1,666]

start afresh with the throttle body settings, then AFM, and ignition timing, they all contribute to the poor runnign state these cars end up in.

 

caused by people not really knowing what stuff does and how the systems work, giving this screw of that screw a little tweak here and there, and the next owner/mechanic doing the same.

 

takes no more than an hour to get it all back to factory settings using the haynes manual and a few basic tools.

[CosKev 16]

start afresh with the throttle body settings, then AFM, and ignition timing, they all contribute to the poor runnign state these cars end up in.

 

caused by people not really knowing what stuff does and how the systems work, giving this screw of that screw a little tweak here and there, and the next owner/mechanic doing the same.

 

takes no more than an hour to get it all back to factory settings using the haynes manual and a few basic tools.

 

Its only for a few seconds on the first turn of the key on cold mornings though.

Sounds like its running rich(lumpy)but then cold idle is ok at circa 1300 RPM after a few seconds

[phil19gti 0]

Well I adjusted the screw on the SAD last night so it's now as open as it possibly can be. Started her this morning and after a few seconds the idle shot up and it stayed about 1700rpm untill the car got up to temperature. Then it dropped and settled around 1000rpm. Very happy with it and very suprised. Going to test it now over the next few mornings and see if it continues to work.

 

I think the SAD screw was adjusted so the opening was at it's minimal, now it's at maximum.

 

I forgot to say, I took the car to Skip Browns recently so I know the idle/mixture/timing are pretty much spot on.

Edited October 6, 2009 by phil19gti

[Maccer 0]

I'll be very interested if this works. Please keep us posted!!

My car has had cleaned injectors, new dizzy cap, rotor and leads, new vaccum can and brand new OE SAD which cost nearly £100. Idle mix on AFM is spot on (tested at MOT) and timing I think is about right too.

She fires up and hunts abit is pretty lumpy like yours CosKev for the first few spins then is up to around 13-1400rpm. Runs fine until it starts coming off the SAD then for another few minutes it will stall if you are not very careful how you come off the throttle and idle sits around 600-800 rpm (quite lumpy). As soon as its warmed up a little more then its bang on at 1000rpm.

The only thing I can think is the SAD is coming off too quick and it just needs it to run on a little longer.

[lagonda 42]

Does sound like adjusting the SAD opening time will help....but interesting that a new one would need adjustment. Perhaps they don't come pre-adjusted.

[phil19gti 0]

Well three days later it's still working. The first 10-20 seconds on start up are a bit rough - she sits at about 1000rpm but once the SAD opens up it's fine. Once the SAD is working she idles about 1600-1800rpm untill normal operating temperature is reached and then drops to around 1100rpm.

 

To say I'm impressed is an understatment. Thi smorning was a cold one so it was a good test and she came through it.

 

The other good thing is once fired up she doesn't even really need any throttle. It stays at about 1000rpm.

 

The car's a bit loud while the SAD is open when revving high but it's much better than about 800rpm.

 

I'll keep you posted how it continues, but it looks like it's worth adjusting the SAD opening to maximum works.

[Maccer 0]

I've got the old one I took off the car and was going to try this myself. When you say you adjusted it to maximum - did you undo the nut and push the slider back then tighten the nut back up?

This seems to be the only way I can see of adjusting it, as if that adjuster nut is loose then the slider moves and blocks the channel completely. How much gap was there when you had adjusted it back? On my old one I can get it so there is the 'slice of pie' gap, with a little bit more just to one edge, but I'm pretty sure my new one opens up further, so you have the 'slice o pie' and another notch next to it showing.

Roughly like this:

 

(_/\) …. (_/\^)

[phil19gti 0]

I've got the old one I took off the car and was going to try this myself. When you say you adjusted it to maximum - did you undo the nut and push the slider back then tighten the nut back up?

This seems to be the only way I can see of adjusting it, as if that adjuster nut is loose then the slider moves and blocks the channel completely. How much gap was there when you had adjusted it back? On my old one I can get it so there is the 'slice of pie' gap, with a little bit more just to one edge, but I'm pretty sure my new one opens up further, so you have the 'slice o pie' and another notch next to it showing.

Roughly like this:

 

(_/\) …. (_/\^)

 

The small nut on the body is what I adjusted. Think it's 6mm, might be wrong though. I took the nut and washers off and then cleaned it out with loads of WD40 while moving the threaded bar (the bit the nut has come off) up and down. This freed it up after a bit. Then I set it so the hole through the SAD was at it's widest and then tightened the nut back up.

 

An update - it's still working absolutely brilliantly. I don't even have to give the car any gas on the first turn of the key in the morning now either. Still takes approx 20 seconds to see the SAD work but after that it's great.