Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
lagonda

Just Fitted New Lower Suspension Arm To My Cti

Recommended Posts

lagonda

Any ideas as to why this might be? PLEASE NOTE THE CTI HAS BASE MODEL FRONT SUSPENSION>>>IT'S NOT THE SAME AS THE GTI!

 

I changed the offside lower suspension arm (control arm) as the ball joint was worn. The steering wheel has always lined up perfectly with the wheels in straight ahead position, so it's not that someone adjusted out the wear in the ball joint.

 

Had to use a fair bit of force levering down on the anti roll bar to release the ball joint, but can't see what I could have done to alter things...now with the wheels straight ahead, the steering wheel is turned a fair bit to the right.

 

Previous owner fitted the previous suspension arms, & I know he sourced these from a bit of a mickey mouse auto factor, whereas the new one is from GSF...is it possible one of these has been made to the wrong dimensions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
steve@cornwall

Always get the tracking re-done after changing steering / front suspension components

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lagonda

Yes, am doing that tomorrow anyway. Plan to remove rack so I can slip bellows off & properly grease it....haven't been able to release the spring wire clips, which seem to be carefully positioned so that you (helpfully) can't release them in situ.

 

But surely manufacturing tolerances shouldn't be so bad as to make so much difference when changing simething like a suspension arm?!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RossD

Is it the same length as the old one? If you've been supplied with a 309 arm instead it'll put you tracking all to pot!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
johnnyboy666

if it was a 309 one you would visibly notice the (road)wheel pointing in completely the wrong direction! it would seem that there are quite large tolerances in tca's, as mine were from two different companies and were different sizes. i guess thats why it makes sense to change them in pairs, but thats not always convenient!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Alastairh

I've done the exact same job 3 weeks ago to my sisters XS. So i dought it would be a tracking issue at all. Sounds like something is very wrong, likely what Ross has suggested.

 

Al

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
davemar

The tolerances are loose enough to really send the tracking way out. I've change a few wishbones in my time, and the tracking always gets pushed way out. However, if you've only replaced the wishbone on one side it's easy to get a good adjustment done. Remove both the front wheels and line the steering wheel straight. Crouch down in front of the car and look down the surface of the brake disc on the side you haven't changed the wishbone. See where the brake disc points to on the rear wheel (e.g. it might be 40% from the outside edge of the tyre). Now this is your reference. Do the same on the side you've just put the new wishbone on. You can now adjust the track-rod until the brake disc lines on the tyre the same as the reference side.

 

OK, it's not as good as using the proper wheel alignment tools, but it does get you a lot closer for no cost, and the car will be drivable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lagonda

Thanks davemar, I think that really has to be the answer. Took rack off to grease it, turned ball joint pins 90 degrees (to even out wear) & reassembled it....& no difference to steering wheel position. I did check new arm length was same as one removed ..... regarding tracking itself, if anything the steering feels better, it's just the steering wheel that's not centreing. It's not way out by any means.

 

I've borrowed a tracking gauge & hope to set it properly this afternoon.....one of the rack gaiters was holed so I'm picking up new ones from GSF (ordered yesterday), so been pointless checking tracking until that's done.

 

Realising the locking nuts for the TREs would be pigs to undo, I dosed them with freeing oil. The nearside one undid relatively easily. The offside one....eventually got my 18" stilsons on it.....& it still wouldn't budge...much more effort might have broken the ball joint pin! Put more freeing oil on it, left it a couple of days, & this time tried ordinary spanner & hitting end of that with a hammer.....& it undid! Just goes to show that relatively low shock impact can sometimes work where much higher steady torque doesn't.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×