Mi16 With No Power

[philfingers 5]

that's a genuine one i think so should be good

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Have you swapped AFMs for the correct one? It ends in '202' part number.

 

If that hasn't fixed it, then permit me to start going over obvious stuff, just to eliminate things.

 

You said the ign leads were on correctly; would you triple check for old Sarty please?

 

[Galifrey 1]

Good point, as 1 is flywheel end have seen a garage make that mistake xD

Edited September 29, 2009 by Porsche911r101

[ricky1.9 0]

Sorry guys - daily car let me down this week so been fixing that and my computer aswell. hopefullt end of badluck.

 

 

 

I actually have a bad feeling about rotor arm being a 'Intermotor' part -blue and yellow box?

Would it say on the arm?

It came from EuroCarParts if I remember rightly.

 

The cap is deffinately Beru..

 

What manufacturer should I try to get?

 

 

I need to check the AFM Part number .......202 you say

 

I have checked and double checked the Lead orientation - however I will triple check just for you Old Sarty

 

 

 

No. 1 being at flywheel end I beleiveto not be the norm. but I was aware of this - good ol haynes

[ricky1.9 0]

I actually have a bad feeling about rotor arm being a 'Intermotor' part -blue and yellow box?

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROTOR-ARM-FOR-PEUGEO...id=p3286.c0.m14

 

 

this box looks firmiliar

 

Are the Intermotor parts *hite then?

[ricky1.9 0]

Just read in this thread

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...mp;hl=rotor+arm

that an adaptor plate for the rotor arm exist for the Mi - don't re-call this on mine

 

can someone fill me in?

thanks

[pug309twin40s 1]

blue and yellow box is definetely intermotor!!

 

not all intermotor stuff is cr*p, but the rotor arm is.. as i found out, and you cant get a refund on it..(

 

do you still have the old rotor arm??

 

i would definetely say refit the old rotor arm if you have it or find another one or borrow one to try if possible

[nick 3]

So are you still running the ignition amp with copper slip on?? If you are I would change that straight away knowing how temperamental those things are.

 

Also check down the plug holes to see if there is oil or water round the bottom of the plug, one of mine filled with water when my w/screen washer pipe came off.... instant missfire.

 

Nick

[ricky1.9 0]

So are you still running the ignition amp with copper slip on?? If you are I would change that straight away knowing how temperamental those things are.

 

Also check down the plug holes to see if there is oil or water round the bottom of the plug, one of mine filled with water when my w/screen washer pipe came off.... instant missfire.

 

Nick

 

 

 

Am still running copper slip on the ig amp - keep forgetting to rob some cooling compound from work.

I will set a reminder on my phone now to rob some on monday.

 

haven't got the windscreen wiper connected and plugs are dry.

 

 

 

Anyone got an answer about the Rotor arm adaptor plate shown in photo below from this thread

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...p;hl=bad++rotor

Just realised I posted wrong thread before - DOH!

 

 

 

 

Oh, and i don't have an old rotor arm i think -will check though.

 

Am thinking of buying this from egay:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rotor-Arm-PEUGEOT-40...id=p3286.c0.m14

 

any one any experience COMMERCIAL IGNITION parts?

Edited October 3, 2009 by ricky1.9

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

That white bit of plastic is not an adaptor plate.

 

It's essential, and new dizzy caps (e.g. ones Ducelier) come with them.

 

If you don't have one I highly suspect that this is not helping matters.

 

I have a horrible feeling this is a bit of a bodge install. (Sorry to say that).

[ricky1.9 0]

That white bit of plastic is not an adaptor plate.

 

It's essential, and new dizzy caps (e.g. ones Ducelier) come with them.

 

If you don't have one I highly suspect that this is not helping matters.

 

I have a horrible feeling this is a bit of a bodge install. (Sorry to say that).

 

 

HOW VERY DARE YOU!!!

 

only messing - but for your information i have the white (off-white) plate fitted. i am talking about the rotor arm spacer thingy in the pic.

 

A bodge - how very dare you!

[Cameron 16]

I think you might be on a bit of a wild goose chase with the rotor arm, like the fresh fuel. What you need is a known running engine (belonging to a helpful forum member) and swap the AFM, ECU and ignition amp over until it runs properly. Then you'll know where the fault is.

 

I think you're just wasting time at the moment, you need to just take a step back and do it properly. See if there's anyone with an Mi local to you, or at least some spares, and swap some parts over.

[ricky1.9 0]

Triple checked tonight leads are in correct position

 

 

AFM Bosch number = 0280 202 202

 

 

Rotor arm is Beru not Intermotor. and i do have the plate i have been talking about.

 

 

 

 

I played with the Screw on the AFM tonight (is this the mixture screw? - not that this seemed to change anythig directly) and unplugged and re-tested the HT side of thing - and after all that seemed to get it running a lot better.

It wasnt as responsive as i was expecting on idle but i thought i'd take it for a quick blast down the road to try it.

 

as a result i found that that it doesn't have instent throttle response like i and no power until it gets to 5K then it picks up and shows some signs of having some balls.

So no power unitl 5K and the misfiring seems to be non-exist now.

 

 

Think Your right Cam - need to do like for like swap form runner

[Galifrey 1]

Do Mi 16's have a vacuum advance?

[philfingers 5]

non they don't. The dizzy is really just a spark distributor; timing being controlled by the crank sensor. Not sure how it adjusts timing with load. From the air flow I suppose? There's no inlet manifold pressure sensor. Then again after a few whiskies I may be talking sh*te!

[welshpug 1,657]

combination of throttle position, AFM + RPM, plus ecu temperature. advance sorted by the ecu.

[Galifrey 1]

combination of throttle position, AFM + RPM, plus ecu temperature. advance sorted by the ecu.

 

Gotcha, i guess the rotor arm has a large enough span to cover the degrees of advance that are changed.

[philfingers 5]

throttle position is only a switch for idle and full throttle, it's not a throttle pot, which is what you'd probably expect. It all works ok tho