Uh Oh...

[Jrod 7]

So driving my 205 to work and I hear a very loud rattle. Pull over to check it out and its coming from the cambelt area. I decide not to risk taking the car any further and to pull into a parking space and leave it there until I can get it home. Just as I start to move it cuts out.

 

So any ideas? I don't think the belt will of snapped as the engine was built about 1500 miles ago plus the rattling indicates something loose?

I'll find out more tonight when I get the car home ...

Edited September 1, 2009 by Jrod

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Doesn't sound good. I once had a rattle from under there that turned out to be one of the cam sprocket bolts had come loose! Only the cover was keeping it from dropping out altogether! I was very lucky that the pulley didn't work its way off the end of the cam. I now ALWAYS loctite these bolts in place!

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

I'm sorry to hear this. Please give us some more information such that we collectively can help you.

[Jrod 7]

Ok got it apart and the belt is still on albeit quite loose. One of the tensioners bolts was completely undone.

 

I'm hoping that its just slipped a tooth or 2 as the timing doesnt seem very far out, would these be enough to stop it running and is it likely to of come into contact with the valves if this is the case?

I'm not going to touch it anymore tonight but once I get it timed up I will do a compression test.

 

Edited September 1, 2009 by Jrod

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Personally I wouldn't bother with a CR test. What if you damage it further?

 

What I mean is - like me - you may have fluked it and not damaged the bores, valves or pistons excessively. You could do this surely doing the test?

 

A loose belt means something's seriously wrong so I would stop now and get the head off. It's almost guarunteed (sp?) you're gonna have to do that anyway, so why risk more damage?

Edited September 1, 2009 by DrSarty

[Jrod 7]

Surely if i turn it over by hand and there is no contact I should be ok to run a compression test?

 

I'm not really sure what I'll do yet, Is it likely to of done any real damage to the engine though when it was only idling? I've only had the car a week...

Edited September 1, 2009 by Jrod

[boombang 2]

I've driven a car for 50 miles with a knackered cambelt tensioner. It had completely fallen apart and most of the bearings had fallen out. Belt itself was half worn through where it was rubbing on things.

 

Put a new belt, tensioner and water pump on and it was absolutely fine.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Time it back up and check it, A couple of teeth can be OK you never know

[boombang 2]

I can't see what you would damage if it's timed up properly and turns over freely and without any untoward noises from inside.

 

Take the plugs out when timed up, turn the engine fully over by hand, then if all good try and start.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

I totally agree, that IF it's timed up properly, or within a couple of teeth (perhaps) the damage will be minimal or even non-existent.

 

I hope that's the case in terms of 'metal' (costly) damage. I've been there.

 

My point is, are you prepared to risk replacing several valves based on whether you can hear noises turning the engine over by hand and listening in?

 

If the timing's really OK then I think you can go for a belt/tensioner refit; otherwise I'd seriously invest your time in checking, or it's all going to have to come off again.

 

I want it to be ok for you seriously, just like people did when we found out a valve head had broken off on my 306 GTI6.

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

I think the safest way to check it would be to do a cylinder leak test rather than a compression test, this would also give you an idea of what valves are damaged etc

[Jrod 7]

Well lined the bottom mark up and the inlet cam is fine. The exhaust has slipped 1 tooth by the look of it.

 

I'm not going to touch it now until Sunday as I'm rallying saturuday and have work to do on the other car to get it ready.

Will update once I know more.

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

It its only one tooth I should think it will be ok wouldnt you? good luck on saturday

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Two points-

 

1. Time it back up to the pins, then do a compression test. This will tell you either way.

 

2. Don't always believe internet mechanics.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

As said, time it back up correctly & then do any further tests you want to do.

 

Why risk it for the sake of an hours work?

 

Graham.

[Jrod 7]

Why risk it for the sake of an hours work?

 

Whats an hours work? risk what? Sorry confused!

[davev 1]

As said, time it back up correctly & then do any further tests you want to do.

 

Graham.

ill assume he means this.lol.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Whats an hours work? risk what? Sorry confused!

To check the timing & correct it if the belt has slipped.

 

Risk; piston + valve contact or worse possible case, valve + valve & piston contact.

 

Graham.

[Jrod 7]

Timed it up and had 0 compression on all cylinders. I was very suprised that i had nothing on any of them but will find out more when the head comes off.

[Jrod 7]

Right this is about to be done. One thing I read on here is that Peugeot replaced the bolts on the cambelt tensioner from allen key ones to ones with a hex and proper washer? I wanted to order 2 of these so wondered if anyone had the part number?

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

I don't have the part no., but all I did was take an OE allen/cap head bolt to a bolt supplier and get a matching hex head version. Cheap, like the budgie.

[taylorspug 7]

Ive done the same as Rich in the past. As long as they arent chocolate grade bolts you will be fine.

[Jrod 7]

That'll do me then, guessing just get a penny washer the same size as the allen head one?

[taylorspug 7]

Yes, make sure the washer is of reasonable thickness though, as the hole the bolt has to pull up through is larger than the shank. Im sure it wont be a big issue though, IIRC the tensioner bolt is only done up to 20NM or so anyway.

[Jrod 7]

So thats why it came undone!