[engine_work] Mi16 With Bottom End Knock I

[sport1901966 8]

A couple more minor updates - things have slowed a bit now as I can only work on the car at weekends.

 

The list of things to do now is:

 

- Re-fit steering rack with new track-rod ends (these are well and truely seized, even after blowtorching the life out of them - not really sure what to do here!)

- Re-fit struts and wishbones

- Remove N/S wing and straighten out the nearside headlight panel

- Repair a couple more sheared bolts in the engine bay

- Re-assemble dash

- Collect bottom end and re-assemble engine

- Clean and paint inlet manifold

- Fit engine and wiring

- Re-assemble front end including replacing bumper mount brackets

 

Itching to get this finished but the end seems quite distant as things stand!

[sport1901966 8]

I've managed to finish off the engine bay rust repairs and painting so heres a couple of pics (still needs a clean!)

 

 

 

 

I also painted and remounted the servo - hoping to make the potential master cylinder clearance issues less likely I used some washers between the servo and the bulkhead to angle the M/C up and to the left. Using pleanty of silicone sealant to seal the gap left.

 

 

After spending so much on the engine and seeing the effect of poor coolant on the block/rad etc I decided to renew the whole cooling system - pipes, rad, offside water pipe and heatermatrix. After getting the heater matrix from gsf I got it fitted, I followed the haynes and withdrew the dash but I reckon it could be done just by removing the IP panels in the driver side footwell.

 

I then fitted the 405 throttle cable as I'm using a full length inlet manifold with the rad tipped forward

 

Edited September 28, 2009 by sport1901966

[sport1901966 8]

I then found out that the engine was ready to pick up so made my way to QEP to pick everything up. A quick plug for Matt at QEP he really couldn't have been more helpful spending ages going through the ins and outs of putting the engine together and any useful tips. When I got the parts home I got stuck in with swapping the pistons onto the in-spec rods I sourced and then fitting the ARP bolts into the rods.

 

Bits -

 

 

Honed Liner

 

 

Getting the spring clip out to get the pins out is a right battle but got there in the end!

 

 

Just tap the old bolts out with a hammer and then fit the new bolts the same way... Easy!

 

 

The only problem (a big one!) came when I got to measuring the liner protrusion, I hadn't done this before and I was using a straight edge and feeler gauges, but even still I could feel majour variations in the clearances, between liners and between the block surface. A trip to QEP later to double check and I'm now having to get the block decked and the liners skimmed, more money!!!

Edited September 28, 2009 by sport1901966

[sport1901966 8]

Most recent job was repairing the sheared/broken bolts and the nearside wing earth point -

 

I took it all apart cleaned it up then put a bit of grease around to disperse water and then sealed it with a freezer bag!

 

 

Coolant pipe bracket - I ground the original stud down to the bulkhead then drilled a hole right next to it, painted then riveted the bracket to the new hole

 

 

Offside wing coolant pipe/bumper bracket mounting bolts

 

 

 

More updates soon... I hope!!!

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Excellent attention to detail, but not in an anal sense.

 

Great write up and I bet you can't wait for the first drive. That attention to detail should mean she fires up first time and you're on 'that' road soon.

 

Don't see the liner and block deck as a downside, as you've actually upped the CR and could've even gone for 0.4mm off both, providing the liner protrusion is both even and to spec (0.003" clearance). This sees about 10.8:1 (instead of 10.4) and the engine loves it.

 

Soooopaar.

[sport1901966 8]

Don't see the liner and block deck as a downside, as you've actually upped the CR and could've even gone for 0.4mm off both, providing the liner protrusion is both even and to spec (0.003" clearance). This sees about 10.8:1 (instead of 10.4) and the engine loves it.

 

Soooopaar.

 

Excellent stuff I had hoped this might be the case but wasn't sure how much effect there may be, not a bad silver lining to this cloud!

 

I'm glad the rust side of things is out the way, it was a test to my patience towards the end. A couple of more body related jobs and it should be a solid car. Can't Wait!

[sport1901966 8]

Not really an update but a question for those that may know!

 

I have an XU10 sump,oil pump, 26 tooth sprocket and the associated chain. Is there any reason not to use the pump? - only it has the oil pump baffle and will also have the 6 bar spring

 

Thanks guys, will be getting a few more pics over the weekend. Engine re-assembly is slightly delayed though, should have the bottom end back from decking and liner skimming next week hopefully!

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

No reason I can think of.

[sport1901966 8]

Well time for another update on the back of last weekends work. Between the when I wrote the list of to do's earlier in the thread and the weekend a few more jobs had found their way onto the list:

 

- Replace droplinks and wishbones

- Sort fuel supply - i.e filter/hose (as my Mi manifold didn't come with any)/banjo etc

- Calibrate Pressure switch and incorporate wiring into the loom

- Fix rust hole on offside wheelarch

- Paint exhaust manifold

 

I got an early start saturday morning but didn't have much success, I started trying to tackle what I thought were going to be the biggest/most time consuming problems - track rod ends, fuel supply and sorting the rest of the sheared bolts/studs etc in the bay.

 

I eventually got one of the track rod ends off, but I had to use my full bodyweight to turn it right up to the last three threads. This ruined the threads and I knew I'd never get the new TREs back in - new track rods to be ordered! The track rods are removed by pulling back the bellows (not easy!) then using a set of these-

 

 

To undo the track rods by the black balljoint socket as seen below

 

 

I had no luck finding anything for the fuel supply but found some hose reducers (10mm to 8mm) on ebay so bought them and bought some 10mm pipe that way I can use the standard filter or switch to another filter (I thought about the custom banjo but then I'd be stuck with the bulky standard filter).

 

Once I had sorted the rest of the ruined bolts/threads etc I moved onto straightening the offside headlight panel and wing. First thing I whipped off the wing, no sealant so must have been off before!

 

 

Then using a combination of wooden blocks and a rubber mallet I got it straightened out, ensuring the wing/bumper mounting points were right by using a spare wing I had as a template. So here is a before and after:

 

 

 

The last thing I did saturday was strip down the inlet manifold ready for cleaning and painting

 

 

 

The oil filler pipe has a massive split in it. Does anyone know the best place to get a replacement?

[sport1901966 8]

Sunday things progressed much better. I got the low oil pressure switch I ordered from thinkauto calibrated. I used a bike inner tube cut into a section with the valve at one end. I used a jubilee clip to clamp and seal the tube by the valve, I fed the rest of the tube through an old bit of coolant pipe (to stop the tube expanding to the point of exploding) and clamped the other open end around the pressure switch - I used duck tape to stop any other exposed tube over-inflating. I wired the switch through a bulb and battery and then pumped the pressure up to about 30 psi using a pump with a pressure gauge. Quite conveniently there was a very slight air leak so the pressure dropped very gradually so I could see exactly were the switch closed - initially at about 20 psi. By adjusting the allen key inbetween the terminals I raised the activation pressure to about 25 psi. Here is the set-up:

 

 

I then moved onto the wiring - I wanted to incorporate it into the loom to keep it tidy and easy to follow, I drew out a wiring diagram to file away -

 

 

 

I spent a bit of time cleaning and painting - very pleased with the results. I gunked and wire brushed the inlet manifold and top engine mount bracket, for the exhaust manifold I used a wire wheel in a drill (would have taken ages with a wire brush) then blasted it with a pressure washer - I was really impressed with the results of this, worked far better than I expected! Anyway heres the results -

 

 

 

The last little thing was the bumper side mounts, I managed to buy the metal part of the mushroom that the bracket slides onto from pug but the outer rubber part is discontinued - fortunately the old ones were salvageable using plenty of WD40 and a small file to get rid of the rust. I used plenty of grease to make sure it doesn't happen again any time soon. Also on re-assembly I ran a tap through all the nuts and the bolts through dies.

 

Here you can see the metal part (I also got the bolt that screws into the metal part from pug)

 

Rescued outer rubber mushroom

 

That was it for the weekend so I now need to order the required parts - droplinks, track rods, oil filler pipe, fuel supply bits. Hopefully next weekend I'll have the bottom end so I'll be able to get the engine together and finally everything can go back together!

[sport1901966 8]

Time now for a long overdue update. The final year of uni is proving quite intense so spare time has become a rare thing!

 

This instalment was making a start on assembling the engine, I didn’t get as many pics as I’d have liked because of feeling the pressure of time. I started with the bottom end; the first bits to go in were the piston oil spray bars. Firstly I made sure they weren’t blocked – used a WD40 can with the red pipe and sprayed through then began fitting and with this came the first nightmare moment (I know... how hard could it be to bolt them in!). Basically I managed to snap one of the bolts because the torque wrench I was using was at it’s lowest setting (10Nm) and as I had an extension bar I was supporting the head with the palm of my hand – after I had snapped the bolt I realised by holding my palm on the head I was stopping the torque wrench clicking! I managed to get the bolt out by snapping a hacksaw blade and cutting a groove in the bolt, so I could then use a screwdriver to undo the bolt. Getting it out was a massive relief!

 

When the spray bars were in the next thing was the crank – first to go in were the upper mains bearing shells (the ones with the grooves in) making sure that all surfaces were very clean (I used cellulose thinners) and the tabs were towards the back of the engine. To then check the bearing running clearances I used plastigage the bearing clearance should be 0.025mm – 0.05mm for both mains and rod bearings. I needed 0.3 undersize bearings as the crank had needed a grind. To measure using the plastigage the crank needs to be lowered in with no oil on the bearings or journals as the oil layer will take up some of the actual clearance. I put a strip of plastigage on each bearing surface:

 

 

Then put the lower bearings in the caps (again making sure everything was very clean) and torqued them all down. The caps then came off again to measure the width of the crushed plastigage.

 

 

 

With these all measuring up to spec the crank came out and I oiled all the bearings up very generously then dropped the crank back. I fitted and torqued the caps again, making sure the tabs of the shells were towards the back (exhaust side) of the engine. For number 1 cap (flywheel end) I put a little bit of rtv sealant on the bottom surface as per the pug rebuild manual and put the hocky stick seals in position on the side, Peugeot have a special tool to slide the cap in without dislodging these seals – very thin plates (i.e oiled flat bits of coke can) are just as good, when the cap is torqued the excess bits of the seals should be trimmed so about 2mm is left protruding. When this is done the crank should (and did) spin freely.

 

 

 

Next to be fitted were the liners and pistons, the surfaces on the block and liners are in pretty good condition so on with the o-rings and a slight smear of RTV to be sure and in they went.

 

 

 

 

I had already put the rings on the pistons – I didn’t have and ring expanders but some external circlip pliers did the job well. It’s important to pay attention to the orientation of the ring gaps and the spring in the oil ring also. I cleaned up the pistons before putting them in

 

 

Putting them in was a bit of an assembly line in itself, 2 pairs of hands are definitely better than 1 for this I had the help of my dad (who has been a big hand all the way through while I mention it!) – I wrapped the rod bolts to avoid damaging the big end journals then dipped the pistons in a bowl of oil (as recommended by the engine builders handbook) then clamped the rings with the ring compressor. For each piston/rod assy I rotated the crank so that the cylinder was at BDC, then lowered the rod into the bore. When the ring comp was resting on the top of the liners I clamped the compressors tighter and knocked the piston into the bore. I was chuffed because this all went very smoothly!

 

 

Before oiling and bolting up the caps once and for all, using ARP bolt instructions, I went through the plastigage procedure as per the mains. The plastigage is time consuming but worth the effort so you don’t waste a lot of time and money building an engine thats gonna spin a bearing within no miles.

[sport1901966 8]

The next lot to go on was the oil pump drive sprocket and chain, the housing (remember to seal this!), the crank seal, the spacer cup thingy, the timing gear then the pulley bolt (in that order). Make sure the pulley bolt is well thread locked and torqued as if that gets loose then the oil pump stops spinning.

 

I wanted to give the oil pump a quick overhaul before fitting it; I also had a 6bar spring to fit whilst I was there. I’m glad I did as I found plenty of bearing in it!

 

 

 

 

When I had done this I got it fitted then bolted on the sump and spacer. I will be sorting some baffling but haven’t been able to find a pre-extended pick up oil pump or a decent baffle. I do however have a GTi-6 sump waiting. If any one can help please PM me!

 

The last thing to do this weekend was get the head on. A quick check of the camshaft cap bolt torques, cam position (both keys at 3 o’clock) and fitting the oil bar and it was ready to go on. I made sure both surfaces were clean, positioned the head gasket and on it went.

 

 

3 Angle seats

 

 

 

Then I covered the head bolt threads and faces with moly grease, dropped them in and torqued them up as per pugs instructions. My god 300° on top of 20Nm seems a lot, I was really paranoid I was going to snap one of the bolts!

 

 

Just to finish of the weekends work my uncle kindly put the steering back together with new track rods. I had the idea of jubilee clipping some old bike inner-tube over the TRE threads to stop them seizing in the way mine had.

[Galifrey 1]

Awesome thread, always feel confident in someones ability when I see them using plastigauge.

 

[sport1901966 8]

Awesome thread, always feel confident in someones ability when I see them using plastigauge.

 

 

Cheers! This has been a steep learning curve but I'm determined to do it right as at the end of the day I or any possible future owners are the only ones to suffer!

 

It was very satisfying to hear it running finally - all to come in updates on the way

Edited December 28, 2009 by sport1901966

[sport1901966 8]

This time I worked loads of odd jobs. Mostly these were on the engine but a few were getting the car ready for dropping in the engine.

 

As I have decided to put a totally new cooling system in (already put in new heater matrix and bought a new offside pipe) I made sure the coolant expansion tank was properly cleaned out and all the crap was off the sensor (I was getting the coolant level warning light on the dash until doing this). I then put in the all the coolant hoses running between the heater matrix/expansion tank/coolant union.

 

 

After doing this I ran the wiring loom through the bulkhead and re-fitted the clutch cable.

 

The rest was engine work –

 

Fitted all the pressure and level senders (inc t piece) and dipstick tube

 

 

Fitted the water pump and inner cambelt cover, timed the engine and then fitted the outer covers and pulley. For the timing I followed the Haynes manual directions and turned it over by hand a few times, I was using drill bits but they stayed concentric to the timing holes every time.

 

 

I then bolted all the following on loctiting/gasketing where necessary

Coolant union

Engine mounts

Distributer

Thermostat housing/coolant piping

Cam cover and seal and spark plug seals

Spark plugs

Alternator – still need belt

Oil breathers and fillers (I had to make the filler out of an old pipe because the original had a massive split in it)

Inlet manifold – ended up taking off top mount bracket to fit – much easier to fit the manifold first!!

 

[sport1901966 8]

I have been struggling to find an alternator belt that will fit, by taking rough measurements it looked like it needed to be a 725mm 5 rib belt but annoyingly as far as I can work out not all manufactures simply name them with the length and number of ribs. Eventually I got one called a 5PK718 made by gates, needless to say measuring it, it isn’t actually 718mm but it fits so I’m happy.

 

When I was picking up the alternator belt I also picked up a new fuel filter and a 55mm ID flexible exhaust gasket for the 4-2-1 manifold to centre section flexi-joint

 

Initially i fitted the 205 oil cooler but subsequently have decided not to use it, partly because I think it may leak, but mainly because it won’t fit in the bay with the full length inlet manifold.

 

I also made progress finally getting the engine into the car! I lifted the engine with the crane then fitted all the flywheel end bits that were blocked by the engine stand – crank seal, flywheel and clutch.

 

 

 

Before moving onto to putting the engine in I got the steering rack fitted, and made sure all the wiring was routed where I wanted, and that the bay was ready for the engine

 

After a lot of swearing it soon became apparent that the engine would not go in with the very long 4-2-1manifold on and the subframe still fitted to the car. I gave in and dropped the subframe and it slotted in straight away. Sometimes the long way really is the short way! Interestingly the gear linkages seem very close to the down pipe but hopefully the gear change will still be ok. This was not fun as it had become long since dark!

 

 

When the engine was in I could get a proper idea what I needed to do for the fuel system. Initially I wanted to get the 106 filter but couldn’t find one that had an 8mm inlet and 10mm outlet (the Mi16 rail has a 10mm inlet). For the sake of simplicity I measured up what I needed in terms of banjo for the original 205 fuel filter outlet to suit the 10mm ID hose required by the rail, the banjo hole size is 12mm (uses an M12x1.5 bolt) and obviously needs a 10mm outlet –I got mine from ebay. I also needed to extend the regulator outlet pipe, the outlet is 8mm and the original 205 hose is 8mm ID so all I had to do was get an 8mm-8mm hose joiner (ebay again) and a length of 8mm ID hose. Below is a schematic of the final system for when the engine is fitted.

 

[sport1901966 8]

After fitting the engine for the first time last weekend it became clear that there was still not enough clearance between the belt cover and master cylinder. I was so tempted to grind some plastic out of the cambelt cover but, I started this project with a ‘do it right’ attitude, so decided to stick to that. This meant taking the engine off the mounts, bringing it forward and re-spacing the servo further left and upwards. I ended up with a pretty good clearance:

 

 

I took a measurement of the distance from the chassis leg directly adjacent to the master cylinder, to the master cylinder RH side for future reference. It may also be useful for others to save putting the engine in then having to do what I did and take it out again! The distance was 118mm

 

 

When I was putting the engine in first time round I managed to take a chunk out of the steering column boot so replaced that

 

 

A few other little jobs needed doing – mounted ignition amp plate, put a jubilee clip on the oil filler pipe, and replaced the clip for the gear linkage mounted to the subframe (that I lost when dropping the subframe last time!).

 

Next was fitting the gearbox, with new diff seals courtesy of GSF and a crank position sensor courtesy of ECP – buy the £26 306 GTi-6 one (ECP no. 415545050) because it’s no different to the Mi16 one and works fine.

 

 

 

When the box was in I fitted the cleaned off struts (with new droplinks)/wishbones/driveshafts etc so I could then fill the gearbox with oil. A note for myself – all the associated nuts and bolts need torquing! I bolted on the battery tray and with that called it a day.

 

Sunday I started off by making some brackets to lower the rad, it was clear that there would never be enough clearance between the rad and intake manifold by just leaning it forward. Lots of trial and error and I ended up with some roughly fabricated brackets bolted to the cross beam and folded backwards. When I had the rad mounted in the holes drilled in the brackets I test fitted the fan cowling, this took quite a bit more grinding in places but I managed to get the rad leant forward to a position I was happy with. The rad is lowered by about 50mm on the offside but slightly less on the nearside so the top hose could be fitted. This tilt isn’t a problem as the coolant enters the rad at the top and leaves at the bottom offside. I’ve ended up with about an inch clearance which should be plenty.

 

 

 

The other job I did today was to make a bracket for the throttle cable, this is just a temporary measure using a bit of angle bolted to the inner lip of the slam panel with a 14mm hole drilled for the throttle cable adjustment bung. Later on I’ll make a bracket that bolts onto the throttle body itself

 

Edited December 28, 2009 by sport1901966

[sport1901966 8]

5th of December- THE ENGINE STARTS!

 

Saturday I mounted the new aluminium Rad (fitted with the thermoswitch and plug, both required 32mm sockets) and filled cooling system.

 

I filled the engine with oil, connected the rad fan loom and fitted the battery (may need to extend the pos terminal wires as they are pretty tight). The AFM and associated ducting/filter were then fitted and plugged in.

 

I decided to make a temporary job of wiring in my 25psi oil pressure warning light and double checked all the loom connections were connected inside the car.

 

I then went through a list of final checks I wrote for myself before running the engine:

– Checked all coolant pipe/oil breather clips (lucky as some weren't tight)

– Checked all wiring connections

– Coolant level

– Oil level

– Checked fuel hose clips

– Made sure all the engine mountings were torqued

 

All that was left to do was run the engine......

 

First of all I ran the engine on the starter to build up oil pressure. It became clear that the oil switch/gauge wires were mixed up as the gauge read full when the engine wasn’t actually running.- after this all gauges work perfectly (other than oil temp which isn't connected)! To do this I just left the ecu unplugged. I know there was pressure as when I turned the key back to the ignition on position the gauge had raised and the light stayed off.

 

I then went for the first start ...........................

 

The fuel pump didn't cut in so I tested the pump by running a +ve feed directly from the battery to the white wire on one of the brown plugs inside the car – I’ll have to check the wiring to and from injection and fuel pump relays but for now I just used the direct feed to run the pump.

 

On the next attempt the engine started, but as soon as I touched the throttle engine died. I used CAPS to check the afm and throttle pot, it seemed the connector on throttle pot must have not been on right because I tried again and it was ok. It didn't start easily, it needed full throttle and wouldn't idle unless the throttle was taken off really slowly; and then it idled at 2.5k. This was convenient for running it at 2.5k for twenty mins as per instructions from Matt at QEP, but obviously not right.

 

Unfortunately there was/is quite a big oil leak from sump and initially there was lots of smoke from new exhaust flexi-joint. The smoke stopped eventually and after the oil got round the engine it was nice and quiet! That’s more than can be said for the exhaust though – the video will explain all!

 

Engine Running

 

After the 20 mins running I tested throttle openings - fast application of throttle killed the engine so as a test I unplugged the CTS. This made it idle loads better and responded to throttle inputs much better - need to replace CTS.

 

I was well pleased to as the engine had really good oil pressure throughout.

 

To finish off I noted up a job list:

 

– re seal sump

– replace CTS

– Tidy up wiring - mount power dist block/loosen or extend positive terminal wires/put all excess cable somewhere / mount rad ballast resistor

– better throttle cable bracket (not on slam panel)

– Securely mount rad - paint/tidy up brackets/put in rubber plugs

– re-assemble interior

– torque all drivetrain and suspension bolts (drop links, strut top bolts, caliper mount bolts, TRE's, driveshafts)

– repair oil temp gauge wiring

– brake fluid (check m/c pipe joints and bleed)

– replace jubilee clips on fuel line (came with pipe i bought) with proper clamps

– relocate washer bottle

– Re-assemble front end

Edited December 28, 2009 by sport1901966

[sport1901966 8]

The video link above owsn't work but the 'edit' buttons seemed to have dissappeared???

 

Anyway heres the fixed link

[sport1901966 8]

Today I began by re-routing the wiring around the AFM to give slack to positive terminal – the power distribution block could still be better located, but will mean lots of cable extensions though, and I don’t want to introduce weakness into the wiring. I then got the new CTS fitted (thanks again to ECP)

 

I then decided to go with cable ties to rigidly mount the rad. The cable ties were looped at the top corners then another looped through them and the fan cowling.

 

 

I made a bracket to mount the coolant pipe on the offside wheelarch because as the rad has been lowered the pipes are lower, I will eventually tidy this up and paint it.

 

 

I wanted to try and tidy up the excess bx loom but it’s difficult to find somewhere to put it all. At the moment I’ve cable tied the loop together and run it over the gearbox along side the battery

 

Next was fabricating a new bracket for the throttle cable (125mm with a bend at 25mm and 95mm) that is mounted to TB rather than slam panel as shown

 

 

After doing these I ran the engine for a bit, just to check the CTS functioning and that the throttle action was as desired. I don’t want to run it too much until actually running it in on the road, but I feel it should be run to being warm occasionally in the mean time. The CTS seems to have made starting much better but the idle is still not great. I need to get to work with the multimeter to find out whats going on with the fuel pump wiring – although I quite like the idea of wiring it in with a switch (just the thought of someone forgetting it if they borrow the car makes me think I should leave it as standard)

[sport1901966 8]

Cracking on through the jobs list I picked a few and got to work. To start with I re-routed the excess loom further past the battery so it wasn’t in contact with the rad, using cable ties to keep it together.

 

 

I also wanted to swap the jubilee clips I put on the fuel line with proper clamps – after buying the Halfords 15-17mm pipe ones I found they were too big so bought some 13-14mm pipe ones – slightly on the small side but just about ok.

 

Where the rad has been lowered the coolant pipe from the expansion tank runs along the edge so I thought it would be best to protect this. I picked up some 22mm pipe insulation from wickes for a couple of quid, job done:

 

 

It seemed a good time to try and suss out the non-priming fuel pump problem, when I ran the engine I had to just run a 12v straight to the pump as it wouldn’t run on ignition. The fact it worked showed it must be a wiring problem. It took longer to sort than expected; I thought I had already tested both the fuel injection and fuel pump relays but it turns out the fuel pump relay wasn’t working because although it was receiving switched live to terminal 3 and to 1 and via the injection relay there was no output to the fuel pump (I knew I had wired the BX loom into the car fine!).

 

To finish off I did a couple of tidying up jobs –mounted the rad fan ballast resistor, rotated the AFM so it is horizontal and took all the sharp edges off the rad brackets I made.

 

 

[sport1901966 8]

Well I'm stumped the relay wasn't the problem, it seems as thought the earth side of the energizing circuit of the relay has a problem because if I earth the relay directly it works. There is some voltage running through it ~ 11.9v but that musn't be enough to activate the switch. I've posted a separate thread here - Thread link, if anyone can offer any suggestions that would be great!

 

This my job list as of the 26th Dec

 

– re seal sump

– Securely mount rad – paint/put in rubber plugs

– re-assemble interior

– torque all drivetrain and suspension bolts (drop links, strut top bolts, caliper mount bolts, TRE's, driveshafts)

– repair oil temp gauge wiring

– brake fluid (check m/c pipe joints and bleed)

– relocate washer bottle

– File and paint coolant pipe bracket

– Wire in oil pressure light

– Fit new fuel pump relay

– Connect bonnet release catch

– Trim flywheel cover

– Re-assemble front end

Edited January 2, 2010 by sport1901966

[sport1901966 8]

I'm working on the repairing of the oil temperature guage wiring, the wire broke away from the terminal at the brown plug in the engine bay that links the engine loom to the dash gauges (see pic).

 

 

I need to order a new terminal, IIRC this side of the plug is male but I'm away from the car and need to get some ordered. Does anyone know what exactly I need? I'm guessing a 6.3mm blade 'male with latch' as you'll see on the link below about half way down the page? Does anyone know what the cross-sec area of the standard wire is?

 

Vehicle Wiring Products Link

 

One more question (I know they just keep coming, please bear with me!) does anyone know how many(ish) wires are in the BX loom at this point, because I wan't to order a multiplug so I can shorten the loom!

 

 

Thanks!

Edited January 4, 2010 by sport1901966

[sport1901966 8]

miles wrote:

The AFM is 5 pin, TDC Sensor is 3 pin, TPS is 3 Pin

Geoff wrote:

So I could use a 5 way (AFM) and a 6 way (for the left over wires) weatherproof multiplug from VWP, cut the loom all in one place along that loop in the pic. What do you think?

 

miles wrote:

Best make a new loom with new connectors inside for the other 2 plug's

 

Geoff wrote:

I don't quite follow you here could you expand?

 

Thanks for all the help miles! Oh by the way did you get my email about the AFM to TB pipe and TB bracket? I quite fancy a red pipe if you have one? And i'm unsure whether to bother with the bracket if it's no more substantial than my (basic) replacement!

 

Could anyone help out with the above, it woud be great to get the stuff ordered ready for next time I can work on the car.

 

Thanks

[mmt 15]

I´d cut the original loom and get some new wires. Be sure to solder the wires to the connectors.