Sump Baffle 2 Sump Gaskets Needed?

[floodys 4 1 Cars]

Ive brought a sump baffle for my mi like the constella one, it bolts between the sump and the block/spacer, silly question byut do i need 2 sump gaskets and if not in what order would the lot bolt together?? i.e sump/ gasket THEN baffle etc etc??? cheers

[Kev-G 1]

2 Gaskets:

 

Sump

Gasket

Baffle

Gasket

Spacer

 

Either don't run the engine for a couple of days or leave it with the sump off to try and let as much oil to have drained and get the faces as dry as possible to improve your chances of it not leaking.

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Either don't run the engine for a couple of days or leave it with the sump off to try and let as much oil to have drained and get the faces as dry as possible to improve your chances of it not leaking.

 

Or just clean the faces and dry them.

[floodys 4 1 Cars]

thats not a problem, car hasnt run for 4 ish weeks, sump has been cleaned loads and there hasnt been a drop of oil near crank, block etc fro at least 2 weeks!!!

[Kev-G 1]

Or just clean the faces and dry them.

 

Always found that when the sump was changed on a car which was driven in then there was enough oil running down the block to get into the gasket when aligning/tightening the sump +leaks would always occur.

Edited July 20, 2009 by Kev-G

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

Always found that when the sump was changed on a car which was driven in then there was enough oil running down the block to get into the gasket when aligning/tightening the sump +leaks would always occur.

 

I agree with you Kev, its not easy to get a good seal with oil about.

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Always found that when the sump was changed on a car which was driven in then there was enough oil running down the block to get into the gasket when aligning/tightening the sump +leaks would always occur.

 

 

I agree with you Kev, its not easy to get a good seal with oil about.

 

Fair enough, personal experience I havn't had one that leaks but then again I probably havn't done as many as you two!

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

And longer bolts

[floodys 4 1 Cars]

After having this fitted for a few years now before i start trackdays again this year i have taken the sump off again to "fix" the oil leak! Few questions if anyone could help with, maybe the above posters??

I have taken sump off today and im going to let it drip the oil away over the next few weeks so hopefully i get no oil leaking while i reassembly, the car has a alloy sump and i read somewhere that people use just sealent instaed of gaskets? Is this right or best to use a mix of gasket and sealent or sealent or just gaskets!

I seem to remember when i did the job last time i put baffle on then bolted the oil pump on inc the L shape spacers, i dont know if this is the right way? I cant seem to now get the pump chain off and get the L shaped spacers out which i think allows the pump to move enough to get chain off! Any ideas/fitting guide to fit/remove these baffles/pump chain?

Lastly, should the baffle "slip" over the oil pump if fitted or do's it have to be unbolted to fit? Cheers

 

P.s i have the standad bolts i think, id like to get longer ones but they are not a standad bolt i think, can anyone let me know what to ask for when i buy some more and also am i right in thinking ceratin bolts go in certain places like the end crank cap?

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

I've used sealant on any alloy sump I've fitted to a car, the DW10 hdi engine I stripped last year had the sump sealed on & I replaced a steel sump on a mate focus which came with sealant from ford so gaskets for sumps are rapidly no longer used imo.

 

I've only fitted a baffle to one car & iirc we had the pump in place so it should fit around the pump ok but it takes a bit of jiggling to get it on.

 

To remove the pump / chain, once unbolted you slide it off the mounts which should let it tilt up into the block slightly which gives enough slack to unhook the chain.

 

I don't really think you'll need any longer bolts with just the addition of the baffle plate, they are only at most 2mm thick iirc & the bolts ought to be plenty long enough as standard to accommodate this extra.

 

g

[rallysteve 22]

When I fitted a constella baffle (PTS eggbox style) with the built in windage tray to an alloy block the easiest way was to seperate the two halves of the oil pump to fit the baffle over then reassemble with the baffle in place. It was a little fiddly but used sealant only (good quality RTV) with spotlessly clean mating faces to seal the sump>baffle and baffle>block and as far as I know there have been no leaks so far.

Steve

[S@m 156]

I will be fitting a constella baffle to my mi16 engine in a couple of months time - has anyone used longer bolts or are the standard ones all good as Graham says? I imagine the couple of mil is negligible but i'd like to get all parts ready before i tackle the job.

 

Sam

[rallysteve 22]

I used the standard length bolts. I also missed out the spacer plate in my above description so in actual fact the there are 3 surfaces sealed with RTV.

Steve

Edited March 12, 2013 by rallysteve

[floodys 4 1 Cars]

Cheers for the answers, i think i may go the sealent way, that way by not having 2 sump gaskets it wont need longer bolts right? With regard to the oilpump i did think about taking pump apart but i think it has some bolts the other side of baffle thus couldnt undo? I think thats right? Tbh the most i did last weekend was to take sump off, undo the 3 pump bolts and had a jiggle about trying to get the L shaped spacer plates out, then i left it as oil was dripping! Will take a look at taking pump apart at weekend! In a ideal world id like to leave pump bolted in, slide baffle over it with sealent on, then bolt sump on etc!

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Sealant is the only way or the bolts will be to short, Try getting M7 bolts but you can re-tap the holes to M8 but it's a hell of a job in place