Clutch Pedal Down!

[mattmalden 0]

Hi,

 

I was driving home from the shops and the each time (3 in total) i used the clutch i heard a 'snapping' sound. Just as I got home I tried to select reverse (BE1) and the pedal dropped straight to the floor.

 

It was late on Friday but I was able to call GSF and order a new cable just in case. I've read the Haynes book of lies and the detail is terrible. Having checked the web I'm starting to worry it could be worse than just a snapped cable.

 

So, I've got Monday off work and the part arrives at GSF on Monday afternoon. I'll only have a couple of hours to do the job as I have to work on Tuesday. I've taken the lower drivers side dash undertray out and the top of the clutch pedal is hidden behind some clipped in carpet. The clips are really hard to remove, so before I go and knacker something I thought I'd ask some advice on here.

 

Do I just have to prise the washers off to get the sound deadning out of the way at the risk of busting something? Or do i need to unbolt and remove the clutch pedal itseld? Or does it sound to you like I'm wrong in my assumption - should I check elsewhere for other causes?

 

Sorry for the mundane and basic question - but as I have a day or so until parts arrive its got to be worth an ask.

 

Cheers,

 

Matt

[jackherer 543]

Before you dismantle anything have a look at the gearbox where the cable attaches. BE1s have a pin between the clutch arm and the arm the cable attaches too, this pin is only held in with tension so can fall out in some circumstances. Also the arm the cable attaches to can fatigue, bend and then snap with a BE1 so check for that too.

[mattmalden 0]

Hi,

Thanks for the good advice. I've had a look and found no pin! But after 10 minutes looking on the ground below I managed to find it again. I checked the pivoting arm that the cable attaches too and it seems fine (I've had one of those fatigue before, but this one still looks okay).

 

I'm not sure how to check the forked release arm thats actuated by the pin as most of it sems inside the box - but I guess if the pivoting arm is not fatigued then it should be okay and not bent?

 

Next I pulled on the cable from the box end and I managed to pull it through from the cabin. It's broken alright.

 

So it looks like it's just the cable to wory about. Is it best to remove the foot area carpet / sound deadening so I can attach the cable to the pedal? I can't see the top of the pedal at all. I assume the pedal has a hole in and the new clutch cable will have a u shaped bracket and securing pin? I don't want to wreck the carpet only to find there was an easier way to attach the cable to the pedal.

 

Cheers for your help Jack!

 

Matt.

[steve@cornwall 100]

Hi,

Thanks for the good advice. I've had a look and found no pin! But after 10 minutes looking on the ground below I managed to find it again. I checked the pivoting arm that the cable attaches too and it seems fine (I've had one of those fatigue before, but this one still looks okay).

 

I'm not sure how to check the forked release arm thats actuated by the pin as most of it sems inside the box - but I guess if the pivoting arm is not fatigued then it should be okay and not bent?

 

Next I pulled on the cable from the box end and I managed to pull it through from the cabin. It's broken alright.

 

So it looks like it's just the cable to wory about. Is it best to remove the foot area carpet / sound deadening so I can attach the cable to the pedal? I can't see the top of the pedal at all. I assume the pedal has a hole in and the new clutch cable will have a u shaped bracket and securing pin? I don't want to wreck the carpet only to find there was an easier way to attach the cable to the pedal.

 

Cheers for your help Jack!

 

Matt.

 

you could take the pedal out, just a bolt through where it pivots - but note the position of the coil spring first. not sure if you can get the new one on this way, though (may not have enough free play with a whole cable)

[mattmalden 0]

Cheers Steve.

 

Sounds like a good idea to me. I'll paint pen a line across the spring and onto the bracket then take a picture before removing the bolt. I've a really bad memory so that should help.

 

I guess as the gearbox end will not be conected until the last minute I should have as much cable play as needed.

 

I'll post up how I get on on monday!

[sideways danny 0]

unbolting the pedal is how i've done it a couple of times in the past. As you've said, connect the cable at the cabin end first

[timb1046 1]

i see no need to unbolt the pedal, imo its just making a job take longer than it needs to be, its not much of a fiddly job realy, just pay attention when you take off your old pedal so you know how the new one is going to fit on.

[mattmalden 0]

Thanks for all the advice guys. Just finished the job now.

 

I left the soundeading in place but had to unbolt the pedal in the end - which was actually quite easy. Connecting the pedal to the cable was the tricky bit, not enough play in the cable to get good access to the clevis, still got it done in the end.

 

Great thing is the pedal now feels about 10 times lighter! I guess the old cable must have been clogged and a nice free running new one has reduced the friction. Mind you it seems a massive improvemnet for an apparant minor problem.

 

Thanks,

 

Matt.