Good Underseal Required

[chesney 0]

Been over 2 years since I started my restoration of my old 205 as seen in this thread which is so old its archived http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...&hl=chesney

 

Hoping to get it rebuilt this summer. Problem is its at my parents house and its rented out. Part of the deal is that the garage is off limits to them and I'm allowed access so I plan a summer holiday of rebuilding!!!

 

I need some advice as to a decent underseal to use for the areas under the car that I've de-rotted and welded and also where the inner arches meet the 1/4 panels as there is a tiny gap and I want to get a good seal that fills the gaps and is thick and strong enough to take the hard life of living in a wheel arch!

 

It's been over a year since I've seen the car and I had given it a few coats of red lead and anti rust spray so I am hoping its done a decent enough job of keeping the rust at bay and I won't need to do too much before sealing it!

 

I'd like a quality sealant that will not get brittle.

 

I have loads of waxoyl too and plan to go crazy with that and get it into all the nooks and crannies but can somebody tell me if this would be best to do after I do the sealant as I think I'm right in saying waxoyl doesn't fully set and putting it on 1st would be silly!

 

Couple of pics I found of the underside. Since this pic I lapped on the red lead to the area boot floor area. Fingers crossed it still looks like this!

Edited June 14, 2009 by chesney

[djinuk 2]

I would get a good quality seam sealer such as grey stripe to cover all seams to stop water getting into them..

 

Then head down to machine mart for a Shutz gun and a couple of cans of shutz (£20 for the gun and cans) hook it up to a compressor and go for it.

 

Shutz can be put on really heavy and it goes off kinda rubbery, its a sort of hammered o/e look, i love the stuff, a few people fine it to oldskool but i think it looks spot on and should do the job.

[CosKev 16]

Tiger Seal is good for seams

[Rippthrough 98]

Phone Bilt Hamber for some dynax S50 fo the cavities and some Dynax UB to coat the floorpan

[chesney 0]

I would get a good quality seam sealer such as grey stripe to cover all seams to stop water getting into them..

 

Then head down to machine mart for a Shutz gun and a couple of cans of shutz (£20 for the gun and cans) hook it up to a compressor and go for it.

 

Shutz can be put on really heavy and it goes off kinda rubbery, its a sort of hammered o/e look, i love the stuff, a few people fine it to oldskool but i think it looks spot on and should do the job.

 

That's one I had heard of and somebody recommended but a classic car restorer I spoke to said this:

 

"Then you would would use a paintable stonechip product. Your friend is I think referring to Shultz, which with the greatest of respect, I wouldn't recommend. It looks good to start with, but being bitumen based, dries out after a couple of years or so. It then is very prone to chipping and coming away, leaving voids that attract moisture and then rust. The stonechip is a bit more durable, plus you can paint it in body colour if you're really keen. I'm a great fan of waxoil, preferably applied with compressed air rather than the pump-up DIY tools."

[chesney 0]

Same guy advised me to use POR15 as a rust treatment and the prep spray sounds good too. Its not an underseal but I might get these products too

 

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?pro...20oz,%20(946ml)

 

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?pro...=&subCatID=

 

Weirdly the same website have shultz and it sounds fine to me!

 

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_detail.asp?pro...l%20(1%20litre)

[chesney 0]

All a bit confusing as the Bilt Hamber stuff looks good too!

 

I need something that is going to get into all the little gaps that I couldn't get to and stop any rust from spreading and seal it all up giving the best chance of keeping it at bay.

 

Could use tiger seal for fitting the front wings and filling the gaps as it claims to be flexible even after setting and I expect the chassis will flex a bit in those areas.

[Tom Fenton 1,549]

I'd use some Gravitex rubberised stonechip stuff, requires a "shultz" gun to apply it with a compressor, its good gear, don't get it on your hands though as it takes ages to get it off!

[CosKev 16]

If your prepared to spend abit of money use this: http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm

 

Using the Epoxy Mastic on my Evo and 309

 

Have a look on that site at the things that use the paint,military vehicles etc.

 

Can also recommend the Dinitrol cavity wax,used that on my 309,much better than waxoyl by along way