My Tdc...

[FinalD 0]

Ok, so the cam is at TDC with a 10mm dowel through the pully/sprocket and through the head, that's fine.

 

The block doesn't seem to want to achieve TDC...

 

 

 

 

 

10mm dowel in the pully and in either of the two spaces there and the pistons are all flat. If we put it to 1 & 4 at the top (what I have been told is TDC) then a tiny notch on the fly lines up fine with the guide plate, but the 10mm dowel holes don't, and we have no1 (going from the fly end) valve touching piston! There is also a large notch in the fly, which again I don't know where it is in relation to TDC, but it means the 10mm dowel does not line up.

 

Any ideas what's wrong with it?!

[welshpug 1,657]

nothing wrong there, they do not lock with the Pins at TDC

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

The dowels don't lock it at TDC. The dowels lock the pistons down level in the block for assembly work.

Edited June 5, 2009 by DrSarty

[FinalD 0]

:/

 

Haynes lies again!

 

So when the fly and block are at TDC...how do I know the head is at TDC?

 

Due to the head having gone off for rework, and the block having been cranked, I don't know what is where, and I need to line it all up so I can put the whole thing back together. Haynes, being useful don't mention anything about lining up the cam and crank separately, only together with the belt on.

 

I figured TDC on both would be fine...so I've found TDC on the block, but where is that on the head then....or is there another method to doing this?

[Shepp354 0]

If it's a standard engine with standard cam and cam pulley then you don't need to find TDC to put it back together.

 

Just position the crank with the dowel in, do the same with cam and put the head and timing belt on. Then turn it over a few times by hand and check that the 2 dowels will still align after doing this. All being well you should have everything assembled correctly.

 

Run it up to working temperature and check again along with the timing belt tension if you want to be sure.

 

 

 

:/

 

Haynes lies again!

 

So when the fly and block are at TDC...how do I know the head is at TDC?

 

Due to the head having gone off for rework, and the block having been cranked, I don't know what is where, and I need to line it all up so I can put the whole thing back together. Haynes, being useful don't mention anything about lining up the cam and crank separately, only together with the belt on.

 

I figured TDC on both would be fine...so I've found TDC on the block, but where is that on the head then....or is there another method to doing this?

[FinalD 0]

Cool, I did think that after a while of sitting about wondering how I was going to do it...then for some reason I thought it would break something.

 

It is completely standard, yes.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

As Shepp said is how it's done. That's what the pins are there for.

 

If you were putting in aftermarket cams with/without verniers, then finding TDC would be relevant to time them up. As standard though, it's just pins in, rotate twice and check as explained. Piece of p1ss!

[FinalD 0]

Thought I was being special and over thinking it. :)

 

Thanks lads, got to pick up a new crank sprocket today (old one had a bite out of the shoulder) but I should have the head on and it timed up later today.

[miamichris 9]

Get a bit of degreaser around that engine

[FinalD 0]

To save making a new thread...

 

I picked up the new crank sprocket today and have fitted it, all nice and shiny, anyway, this means I'm able to put the belt on and the whole thing can actually go back together...

 

When using the dowels in the crank pully, which locating hole is the correct one?

 

 

The one that's at the top and just over 10mm, or the one to the left of it that's spot on 10mm?

 

Also I have new head bolts, which is fine, but I have a pile of spacers from the old bolts, and a few spacers on the new bolts (but they look old, the spacers, not the bolts).

 

Do I put spacers on any of the head bolts? I know Haynes says to put the spacer on the one at the timing wheel end...which is genius, as there are TWO bolts at the end of the head so I don't know which one needs spacers, and also how many/what size. I'm sure I'm just being a little bit thick, but it's always better to ask than to assume.

 

New bolts placed in the head.

 

 

 

Last two new bolts. One has one thin spacer, the other has 1 thin and one thick one.

 

 

 

Old bolts and spacers, lots of thin ones, and one thick one.

 

 

 

Choice of holes for spacers at the timing wheel end.

 

[welshpug 1,657]

fat spacer goes above the water pump, wind it in by hand and you can see where it pokes out at the bottom.

[FinalD 0]

Cool, so the left one in the pic.

 

No other spacers needed? Don't want to wind them all in, tighten them up, and find out I was meant to put spacers in.

Edited June 6, 2009 by FinalD

[welshpug 1,657]

I think you may need to use a fat and thin spacer above the water pump, count how many thin ones you have

 

if you look at the back of the block you'll see where the bolt pokes through, wind it in by hand and you wont cause any damage.

[FinalD 0]

I have lots.

 

11 thin ones with the old bolts, and 1 fat one.

 

2 thin ones with the new bolts and 1 fat one.

 

Basically, wind them all in by hand, if they poke out the bottom, remove, fit spacer, try again, repeat as necessary so that they are all staying within the block?

 

It's a shame we're down to 1 GTI in our house now (this one) as else I'd just pop my head under the bonnet of another one.

 

EDIT: Oh, and thanks for the help so far and putting up with me being a tard.

Edited June 6, 2009 by FinalD

[FinalD 0]

Right, head is on and torqued to stage 2 settings (15Ft lb)...but I've been wondering just which type of head bolts I have.

 

 

 

 

If I'm right, according to Haynes that's the Torx type? Which means I have to put a further 300° onto each bolt. That seems a very long way, and I don't want to knacker the bolts or block. The other type of bolts only has to be done 120° which seems a more sensible amount.

 

Do I need to put it to 300° or 120° ?

[welshpug 1,657]

up to you, the first setting varies before the 120 or 300.

[James_R 3]

I'd not do the degrees option at all, ends up stripping the block sometimes

 

better to go 25, 50, 75lbs then recheck after the engine's been run for 20mins up to temp at 75lbs again and done

[FinalD 0]

That seems a lot more sensible. I now have 75lbs all round.

 

Still got inlet etc. to put back on, won't have the engine in the car till Monday now...as I've spotted the reason the aux belt snapped and ripped through the timing belt. Will get pics up at a later date, when I can do a diary/log thing.