Batfink 201 Posted January 4, 2012 Glad it seems to have come together well in the end. Its been a long road and the engine did not look right in your dining room Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 587 Posted January 4, 2012 Well done. When I put lifters back together I prime them with oil, but also make sure they can still be compressed in my fingers by approx 1mm or so. This means they still have a little air in them but they fill completely within 10mins of running in time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,542 Posted January 4, 2012 Sounds a happy ending. Just beware of driving it at any fixed RPM, you want to be up and down the revs as much as possible. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted January 4, 2012 Sounds a happy ending. Just beware of driving it at any fixed RPM, you want to be up and down the revs as much as possible. nope definitely not going to do that, although baker doesn't state that specifically, we've been either accelerating or lifting, but not driving. More later, and perhaps a couple of videos! caveat - exhaust manifold is blowing Glad it seems to have come together well in the end. Its been a long road and the engine did not look right in your dining room like your signiture, we need to do your car now!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted January 4, 2012 Good work Justin (and Paul) Varying load, varying revs, and slowly increase maximum revs over a few hundred miles - that'll see her right, and then once lulled into a false sense of security that she'll see a gentle life, thrash the utter bejesus out of it as a good Mi should be and enjoy the fruits of your labour I'll have another look for your dipstick later, but either way I've certainly got one from one of my spare Mi's that you're welcome to use. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted January 4, 2012 Good work Justin (and Paul) Varying load, varying revs, and slowly increase maximum revs over a few hundred miles - that'll see her right, and then once lulled into a false sense of security that she'll see a gentle life, thrash the utter bejesus out of it as a good Mi should be and enjoy the fruits of your labour I'll have another look for your dipstick later, but either way I've certainly got one from one of my spare Mi's that you're welcome to use. thanks Anthony, if it wasn't for those darn lifters, we would have had a running engine a week ago!! Up to 70 miles now and it's loosening up considerably, but still feels tight in comparison to the old engine. Going to do another thirty now then drop the oil / change filter again for some semi synthetic. it's seen 5000 rpm regularly and 6000rpm once very briefly, going to keep letting it rev occasionally and see where it gets to by 100 miles, i'm feeling good about how it sounds, the pressures and temperatures are reasonably constant, or at least behaving in their usual fashion according to rpm. The waterleak is the bottom hose, i need a new jubilee clip on there, but it's only a very very slight leak when you move the radiator. Now you're ready to take the car out on the road and bed the piston rings in. To do this requires several brief applications of full throttle in a high gear to generate high cylinder pressures and force the rings against the bore walls. Put the car into 4th or 5th at 1500 to 2000 rpm and apply full throttle for about 10 seconds. Coast along for 30 seconds to dissipate any heat generated and repeat. Do this ten times. It should take about 10 minutes and maybe 5 miles if you don't have too many other cars up your chuff trying to get past. This took the engine from a noisy and asthmatic heavy breather for the first three miles to a tight sounding but strong pulling engine. By now you've already worn off more than 90% of the high spots on the various bits that contact each other. However friction levels inside the engine are still fairly high compared to what they'll eventually settle down to. The next stage is to gradually build up throttle usage and rpm limits. This can take place much faster than many people realise. Drive for 50 to 100 miles with gradually increasing throttle usage and rpm. By the end of this time you should be using full throttle and high rpm for brief periods provided fuelling and ignition settings are already optimised. currently at the increasing throttle usage and rpm bit. cheers JB Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted January 4, 2012 (edited) She wants to rev, she really wants to rev, but i won't let her... yet. 115 miles, second oil change done and i'm very happy.Fixed the manifold so it really isn't blowing at all, for the first time - ever. now i can hear everything going on. It has a slightly raspy induction note that worried me around the 90 mile mark, i'm still slightly paranoid about the lifter bores, but the noise only happens when you open the throttle hard at low revs, on over-run and everywhere else it just sounds quite content. Thing is, i've always had some sort of exhaust blow, so perhaps it's just a noise that is only audible when the exhaust isn't blowing. The noisiest thing on the car now is the induction hammer, a good thing in my humble opinion. I hate to say this (mostly because it could be misinterpreted as a brag, 120k tired engine vs new everything)but it's already got bags more go than the old engine, it pulled like a train up a short hill in third, steep one at that, one i've been up many times. once the bits of fence for my garden to replace the blown down ones arrive tomorrow, i'll pop out for a drive, and see how it feels. i am happy. Paul has a video to share to illustrate quite how happy... Edited January 4, 2012 by kyepan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul_13 212 1 Cars Posted January 4, 2012 Clicky Glad to hear it's going ok. Would join you for a drive but my oil hasn't turned up. Curse you Yodel! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted January 4, 2012 Good stuff, Mind don;t listen or read a Word of Dave B, He's never built a good Pug Engine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted January 4, 2012 (edited) Good stuff, Mind don;t listen or read a Word of Dave B, He's never built a good Pug Engine i'm not going to defend Dave Baker, little bit too pragmatic, plus he's not here to defend himself. But i do think some of his technical articles are interesting (in between his unique editorial style) to read and absorb. Hence following his running in guide, which closely follows this an equally well written tome of internet knowledge. I was going to mention the 106 engine that DaveB built, that subsequently ended up in sandy's hands for inlet and exhausts (iicr). It's a cruel twist of irony that Sandy squeezed more power out of that engine than Dave Baker claimed was theoretically possible. I can't find the link right now.. but i did giggle when i read it a few weeks back. oops.. i just mentioned it. Cheers J Edited January 4, 2012 by kyepan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 587 Posted January 4, 2012 Is this the engine with my Stage 2 inlet cam and 3 row chip? If so, just remember that light loads will be ok, but their won't be enough fuel at high loads/high rpm. ie it will run lean. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted January 4, 2012 Is this the engine with my Stage 2 inlet cam and 3 row chip? If so, just remember that light loads will be ok, but their won't be enough fuel at high loads/high rpm. ie it will run lean. Stage 1 regrind and 3 row chip AFAIK as removed from his previous engine - I think the Stage 2 musings were for possible future developments Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted January 4, 2012 Stage 1 regrind and 3 row chip AFAIK as removed from his previous engine - I think the Stage 2 musings were for possible future developments Anthony is correct. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 587 Posted January 4, 2012 I hope you enjoy it. The blocked decked, Stage 1 cam and chip makes a very nice combination. It should pull like a train from 4500 to 7200 and redline at 7500. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted January 4, 2012 (edited) Thanks Peter, block was only refaced a little, as we're the liner seats and liners, although the head had a light skim too.. So hopefully it has a smidge more compression. My rough calculation says a bit over 10.8 / 1. Ish Edited January 5, 2012 by kyepan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 587 Posted January 5, 2012 Yes, if pistons were flush with the top of the liners it will be 10.8:1. A small but significant increase. In doing so, you've also reduced the squish height which also improves the burn rate. Double win. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Baz 421 Posted January 5, 2012 Wooohaaaaaaah!!! Good work lads! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) Started the car this afternoon, reversed, pulled out of the parking space. no oil pressure but no warning light, engine off. inhale... check crank pulley bolt (for the second time today) check oil pressure sender - and the connector has come off... exhale. change pants, continue day. Engine still feels fairly tight, but strong. Today, I changed and fixed some jubilee clips. Bottom rad hose got a new jubilee, and now no longer weeps. Brakes felt a bit spongey, and it turns out the vac hose was not really well attached at either end, and one jubilee needed replacing, brakes now good. Applied more exhaust paste to my fanimold, it looks like a giant clay fanny now, but does not blow, i'm sure i've said that before. The temp gauge felt a bit lively, and does react to load a bit, but bled the system and the fan is cutting in fine / thermostat opens ok.. so i guess it's just producing lots of heat at the moment. cheers J Edited January 5, 2012 by kyepan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Batfink 201 Posted January 6, 2012 Just had a little drive in the car. Comparing it to the old engine its so much better. Great throttle response, better idle and general behaviour, as well as putting a proper grin on your face as it pulls to the redline. Mucho Like!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted January 6, 2012 fizzy loose bolt sound and slight vibration turned out to be alternator bracket mounting bolt making a bid for freedom on the bypass. which pisses me off, because errant bolts are dangerous.. new high tensile bolt cut down and locktited in. 250 miles, pulling strong. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Baz 421 Posted January 7, 2012 Comparing it to the old engine is silly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted January 8, 2012 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTh_ntlEQy4&hd=1 listen to this, 320 miles and loosened up nicely. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cheesegrater 43 1 Cars Posted January 8, 2012 Boooooooorrrrrrrrpp! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 587 Posted January 8, 2012 Sounds good. Can't wait for the next clip when you take it past 7000. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted January 12, 2012 (edited) Have a vibration at 5500 rpm, that lasts till 6250rpm. sounds loud enough to be something engine, touching on something chassis. or something connected to the engine, touching something chassis, or something large and plastic / metal, that is loose. list of things i am going to check tonight Gearbox bolts - including cutting down and fitting the rear one. Engine mount under battery Starter bolts engine mount left hand side engine mount bottom alternator mounting / adjustment bolts. radiator - as mine is not the most securely held in. valance - again. check for exhaust touching cross member, check exhaust further back. Bottom pulley + smaller bolts Gear linkages Sump bolts Coil pack Cam covers Drive shaft bearing retaining bolts Ignition amp mounting Alarm mounting Gearbox earth Then if it still does it, perhaps the camshaft pulley bolts with the covers off. Edited January 12, 2012 by kyepan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
