kyepan 291 Posted September 20, 2010 Use thumb pressure on the top of the upper thread to push against, to release the lever, rather than just pulling it. understood!! 8 more to go. put tape around it and will try the thumb technique. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted January 1, 2011 (edited) just installing the new lifters i bought on here and noticed, some are prouder than others when sitting, i assume that meant they were primed with oil and others are not, gave one a squeeze and expected it spring back.. no spring, infact no squeeze either, it seemed a bit rigid. took it apart, and the inner piston was ceased inside the follower, have taken another apart and it is both primed and palatable, however the lifter body / followers seem very tight, and not really very easy going on each other.. answering my own questions here it would seem. next question, one of the inner pistons is ceased into the outer piston so i cannot get it palpating, tried pulling it apart, tried filling the inner with oil, and then depressing the ball valve. any advice welcome cheers J Edited January 1, 2011 by kyepan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted January 1, 2011 have gone through about ten, have two ceased inner pistons, three that are tight in the lifter body and have worked the rest loose. any idea how to separate the ceased ones, currently they are soaking in WD Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted January 1, 2011 I drilled a suitable sized hole in a piece of 2x2x12" wood I had lying about and whacked it against another block of wood. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted January 2, 2011 I drilled a suitable sized hole in a piece of 2x2x12" wood I had lying about and whacked it against another block of wood. ah, so to be more specific separating the large part of the lifter, and the center piece works great using the whack on wood technique, but then the center piece has a piston inside it which has the ball valve and spring. this is the part that is solid... if whacking on wood is still the correct thing i'll go and buy a 9mm drill and get smacking. i've tried heat and cold, etc... thanks again J Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted January 2, 2011 ah I see , doh! All mine were springy once removed from main body I'd send them back tbh! or at least ask the advice of a friendly engine builder. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jrod 7 Posted January 2, 2011 They came from me. I've no idea to be honest as they were new and I just never used them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted January 2, 2011 They came from me. I've no idea to be honest as they were new and I just never used them. don't blame you at all mate, am going to give them a dip in nail polish remover and if not get two more, as i only need two, the rest are fine. cheers J Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted January 24, 2011 A quick update, Got two new lifters from the manufacturer, they are in the head and it's done, bar putting in the cam shafts. Crank, liners and block are with the engineer, being checked / honed / cleaned. going to order the bits for the bottom end build, do these bearing part numbers look correct to you? Main Bearings AEM5510 - Now Glyco H1074/5STD 3 Big Ends AEB92256 Thrust Washers AEW2317 Now Glyco A214/4STD Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted February 3, 2011 (edited) should be picking up the crank liners and block this weekend along with the bits. came to £283 for crank polished liners honed block cleaned mains big ends thrust bearings set of rings. so add the 200 ish for the head work, 3 angles seats / skim / back cut valves. plus another couple of hundred for oil pump and gasket sets etc. plus 120 to balance the crank... we're kind of getting towards 900 quid. Edited February 3, 2011 by kyepan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rallysteve 22 Posted February 3, 2011 should be picking up the crank liners and block this weekend along with the bits. came to £283 for crank polished liners honed block cleaned mains big ends thrust bearings set of rings. so add the 200 ish for the head work, 3 angles seats / skim / back cut valves. plus another couple of hundred for oil pump and gasket sets etc. plus 120 to balance the crank... we're kind of getting towards 900 quid. Thanks for posting up the prices of the macihining work, thats just what I was looking for May I ask where you had the work done? Cheers Steve Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted February 3, 2011 Hope you went for o.e oil pump Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted February 4, 2011 Hope you went for o.e oil pump I don't think dad has ordered it yet, is there a problem with after market ones? Oil Pump LP2294 this is the one QEP supplies same as This is the one dad was going to order. 50005815 cheers J Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted February 4, 2011 Only heard bad things about non-o.e oil pumps, inconsistent oil pressure, often too low and sometimes excessive. Typically there wont be anything at all wrong with your original pump but stripping it down ad checking the clearances in the rotors and replacing the spring and plunger is all that's needed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alan_M 66 1 Cars Posted February 5, 2011 I don't think dad has ordered it yet, is there a problem with after market ones? Oil Pump LP2294 this is the one QEP supplies same as This is the one dad was going to order. 50005815 cheers J I had a non-OE pump from QEP years ago, and it's been fine since. Rebuilt Mi16 about 6 years ago and done 35k. Although, surely it's worthwhile fitting a GTi6 pump/sprocket & chain? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted February 5, 2011 The one major thing I would never use a Pattern Pump, I've seen problems twice with them compared to zero with old ones, They are ultra reliable and I'll say again after 274,000 miles in my dads 306 the pressure is still fine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted September 4, 2011 so, crank, flywheel, clutch cover and pulley are back from vibration free.. balanced they also took a kilo off the flywheel, worked out more expensive than i had intended but it took him three times longer and he broke two cutting bits. so, once the block is cleaned (specifically liner seats) building can begin. J Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul_13 212 1 Cars Posted September 4, 2011 I have a 6 oil pump in pieces mate just missing a few bits off it. Or if you waita little bit I can get you a complete one out a mates engine with pump baffle and all. Hopefully the other engine will have the correct sprocket and all youll need to buy is the chain. I take it your using a xu10 oil spring? Bring the block round if you want and blast it with the pressure washer to get the crap out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted September 4, 2011 (edited) so spent the afternoon cleaning the block, and more specifically the liner seats. Where the engine had been sitting the bases of the liners had corroded, leaving deposits of rust around the rim of the seats and lots of limescale. So it being aluminium, no chemicals or hard metals, or tools are really allowed.. which made cleaning tricky because of the rust. I resorted to the following knocking off the scale in the water jacket with some wire wool. scrubbing the liner seats with a washing up brush scrubbing the liner seats with a foam dish pan scrubber using wooden kebab sticks to knock the rust off round the seats Poking things down the head bolt holes with wool on them to get rid of the corrosion. and very gently (and i mean barely touching it) removing the deposits from the seats with a razor blade to, the ones that would not come off with the foam dish scrubber or washing up brush, then washing and scrubbing. I wasn't actually touching the seats, just the debris stuck to them. Then did a small amount of deburring and chamfering the bearing scraper, did the top of the block, and the bottom, so it's all radiuses nicely Finally a good exterior scrub then hose wash through all the bearing oil ways, waterways, up and down the oil gallerys etc until i was happy no grit or crap remained. The results, whilst not spotlessly clean, are totally smooth to touch except the horizontal seat right at the end where the worst of the corrosion was in the second picture below. The angled part seats are all in good condition and smooth so I am happy with them. In the end i had to get quite agressive with the rust on the very outer edges of the horizontal seat, however being careful to attack the rust rather than the seat itself, once loose the rust would wipe off. From the look of the deck I was initially quite concerned about the quality of the finish, but a good scrub saw it come up quite smooth. i'm going to weigh the rods and piston assemblies tonight to give me an indication of how balanced they are, then make a decision on whether to pull them apart and do some more work on them. know they have been balanced before, because of the machining marks on the backs of the caps, however the carbon deposits on the crowns look fairly thick and must weight something. ps, how do you remove those carbon deposit? Cheers J Edited September 4, 2011 by kyepan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted September 4, 2011 had a brief search about cleaning aluminium, and acetone is my new best freind, smells great, also good for removing carbon deposits on pistons. Weighed the whole piston and rod assemblies including the existing big end bearings.. and muck.. and they are all within a gram, winner. Spent a bit of time cleaning them up this evening. First thing i managed to do was slice my thumb up on the top compression ring.. should it be that sharp? before - skirt and lands before - valve cut outs had carbon in them - starting to notice things, like the exhaust cut outs are smaller After - skirt After - valve cut outs Thrust face wear visible on all pistons - the slightly smooth grey oval patch http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6089/6113785935_7b17711bc4_z.jpg again where the engine had sat the moisture had sunk to the bottom of the second compression ring, it was quite corroded and stuck, it broke upon removal. used cotton buds to clean out the oil ring land, then the plastic tube - the cotton to scrape out the combustion crap behind the compression rings question about top compression ring - does it have a right way up? the second one has a step in the bottom.. Cheers J Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted September 5, 2011 most rings will be marked "top" i cant remember the specific details of which way round but they do have different profiles, pic in haynes iirc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted September 5, 2011 thanks welshpug Yes paul if there is a spare pump going that would be grand. for some reason i can't use the image embed tag... You are not allowed to use that image extension on this board. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted September 5, 2011 Oh yeah and they are pretty sharp and fragile! I've found brake cleaner works well to get carbon deposits off, by the smell there's acetone in it I used a brillo pad to get most of the carbon off last time I cleaned a head + pistons up. What do the machining marks look like on the caps? They are siad to be quite well balanced assemblies from the factory Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted September 5, 2011 What do the machining marks look like on the caps? They are siad to be quite well balanced assemblies from the factory I'm going to weigh them again once they are all clean. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyepan 291 Posted September 5, 2011 quick question, do new liners have the correct finish already? or do they need honing before the rings are gapped? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
