[project] Sarty Evo II - Phase 2 Of Project Sarty

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

OK then. Colin is now a daddy for the second time and back in his workshop, attacking my J plate donor.

 

It seems rust likes Sarty.

 

Whatever; Colin knows this is what I have to work with, so I have requested he removes/cuts-out the rusty areas, plates and treats them as necessary ready for me to repaint. This may actually mean new headlight panels, but I'll leave him to advise. I don't need a jack fixing where the worst part is anyway; the 106 GTI fuel filter will go there as it is now on the 2.2.

 

The slam panel will be removed (see below**) as will the lower cross 'brace', which isn't really a brace, as a new cradle will be added to support the lowered rad. We'll go as low as we can with the rad as allowed by the St Tropez valance.

 

**I have submitted a 'For Sale' ad showing what items are available now with prices and will soon be available once Colin doesn't need to move the car around anymore, e.g. the rear beam etc.

 

Please be aware that these items are all down in Launceston Cornwall, and COLLECTION AND POSSIBLY REMOVAL WILL BE REQUIRED. I will ask Colin to take pictures of the seats for Hexhamstu and anyone else in line to have them, although I suspect they're not perfect. But all prices are reasonable in my opinion, considering the necessity for people to go get 'em.

 

Will put a link to the for sale thread once it's approved.

[James_R 3]

F-reg's seem to be the least worst for rot, but if it's being bare shell prep'd it can be fixed, good the projects got rolling

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

You can still buy all those panels new, Even with the strut top to the front is only £99.00, bit of work to fit thou but at least it will look OE

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

You can still buy all those panels new, Even with the strut top to the front is only £99.00, bit of work to fit thou but at least it will look OE

 

Thanks Miles. That maybe the best option at that cost.

 

Priority is to get it together for now, so it'll be like a rat-look, but rapid patchwork quilt for a while.

 

I'll see if Colin approves of that idea.

 

P.S. I'll be down with you November to collect not only 'that' item, but I'd like another set of your marvellous gear linkages and a short shift 'L' bracket if you can do me one of those please? You may soon also have a request to refurb 2 x BE3 1.6 boxes for the tandem engine build.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

No worries, X is tucked away in the courner of the workshop

I was surprized how cheap those panels are, say compared to a wing even my parts man was shocked

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Well today I are be mostly drawing the muthafunya of all loom diagrams. This is what I'll be using in EVO II and all other aftermarket ECU installs.

 

This includes the brown multi-plugs under the dash (all pin numbered) and my non-patented relay box to suit the installation of practically any aftermarket ECU.

 

I have included the VWP shopping list with all of the wiring colours (like a legend for the loom diagram), gauges (sizes) and amounts required together with unit costs. All of the items in the list came to £92 delivered, which included the relay box itself.

 

If anyone spots any mistakes please shout up, but this should see anyone understand what goes where, and perhaps why too.

 

If anyone wants to know which pins you use IF you're using any standard components like the XU9J4 (1.9 Mi) TPS, coil, crank angle sensor or ignition amp then just ask.

 

I've done a bit of spending then to buy all of the above, plus a nice new Volvo expansion tank with cap rather than a grubby one from an E... 1983 528i BMW (£18), and a set of new GM/Chevy LS2 truck coils so I can leave the LS1s on the red TSW'd mobile for the Pulsar bodied 2.0L engine going in it.

 

I think the TSWs may have some life in them yet.

 

These LS2 coils crank out 3 times the current when sparking (120mA instead of 40mA of the LS1s), and I am positive having individual coils with individual ignitors - all be it on semi-sequential spark - has a positive effect on getting a good mixture burn. They also have ready made pig-tail (18") plugs and loom wires on, which simplifies matters.

 

People running very high power Audi engines use these, as do the orginal 5.7 litre GM engines. I make that 2.85 litres per 4 cyl bank, which means these are quite reasonable for 2.2 on a straight 4.

 

So attached is the ultimate (sad bastard) loom diagram which shows what I will follow and make. Below are the LS2 coil packs (1 per cylinder) and a comment about them from the MS site.

 

with the LS1 on the test stand you can hear the sparking, not loud but certainly audible. With the LS2/truck coil it sounds like someone is banging on the table!

 

 

These LS2 coils are incredible. Even compared to the LS1 coil, these are just crushers! On the LS1 coil there is around 40 milliamps of peak secondary current with 5 milliseconds of dwell time. On the LS2/truck coil, there is 120 milliamps!

 

BTW, I will have a complete spare set (4) of these LS2 coils with pig-tails if anyone's interested in them.

Total_Loom_Layout_for_Aftermarket_ECU_incl_items___wiring_legend.pdf

Edited September 11, 2009 by DrSarty

[Galifrey 1]

Had you considered using bike coilsticks?

 

Have used them on friends kit cars before with custom management, no more failing HT leads!

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Had you considered using bike coilsticks?

No I haven't, but I guess they're just like 'coil-on-plug' (COP).

 

I guess it's often good to look in other related fields, and in a way bike engineering can show us ways to make things smaller, lighter and simpler.

 

To support my LS2 coils, I'm going to get some 8mm custom HT leads from that 'Magnecore' IIRC place. I have Corsa leads at the moment, but I feel I can reduce them in length by about 6" each. Every little helps.

 

I spent some time proof reading my loom layout and relay box designs and managed to simplify things a little. (See attached)

 

These are what I would consider a final version of the box & loom diagrams plus the shopping list. I've managed to make it so only the MNL (12pin Mate'N'Lock) connector is needed for the relay box rather than a second 6pin connector.

 

The diagrams both share the same wiring colours now to support the VWP shopping list, and even include pin numbers for the MNL-12. The MNL-6 is now optional on the VWP shopping list, but I'm going to use it as a coil pack connector (5 of 6 pins required) such that the custom strut brace that Colin's making can be easily removed, as the coils will all be attached to it (as will the oil breather tank).

 

Below is the current LS1 coil set-up.

 

I'm going to follow previous advice to layout a peg board such that this loom can be as tidy as possible and easy to repeat manufacture.

Sarty_Loom_for_Aftermarket_ECU_incl_VWP_Items___Wiring_Legend.pdf

[Galifrey 1]

That's a nice tidy install. The bike throttle bodies and coil sticks (kawasaki usually) are very popular in the kit car world. Mainly because a lot of bikes get crashed and there are plenty of available parts quite cheap.

 

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

So at last, there's really no more planning to do, as I've finished designing and know exactly how to build the loom.

 

Please bear with me that planning, buying stuff and asking people to do things for me is really all I can do from out here in Afghanistan; BUT, things are moving along.

 

The new front panels for the white shell arrive this week and may be fitted too.

 

I have all of the loom and ignition components, such that when Colin's done the fabrication and plonked it back on its new suspension, wheels, brakes and steering, in theory, once I've thrown the ready-made loom in I simply have to chuck the 2.2 engine back in. A little bit of plug and play later and it'll be 'Thunderbirds are Go'.

 

Below are the two loom construction diagrams so I/you know what goes where and how much you need. It even helps you visualise the loom coming through the bulkhead (as it says 13 wires), and how many go to each sub-loom. Then it's just the pins on the components which I know anyway. The pre-fabrication of this loom which I'll do at home in the evenings on leave will make installation so much easier.

 

There are two diagrams, because I've included one for the staged injectors (i.e. two sets), which I am definitely going to do. Twin sets of XU7JP4 Sagem blues will be going in, 4 into modified holes in the manifold firing onto the backs of the valves and 4 into the de-bunged throttle bodies for high rev mixing fun.

 

As you can see, by mounting the ECU in the engine bay (in a box by the battery), I've massively reduced the need for wires to go through the bulkhead, which is convenient and economical in several ways.

 

It gets up to 30 wires thick (on the staged injector set-up) for one portion going from the Emerald ECU and across to the engine, but only for a matter of 3-4 feet, as opposed to needing about 12-13 feet.

 

I intend the loom to be extremely well made, durable, tidy and almost OE, and perhaps even hardly noticeable.

 

So this is moving - slowly. But I think the prep will pay off.

 

FOR A TYPICAL 4 INJECTOR SET-UP

 

FOR A STAGED INJECTOR SET-UP

 

If anyone would like these as crystal clear PDF files then just ask.

Edited September 15, 2009 by DrSarty

[James_m 0]

Maybe a silly question, but how do you plan to map the ECU? Permanent data cable through the bulkhead?

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Maybe a silly question, but how do you plan to map the ECU? Permanent data cable through the bulkhead?

 

Three ways. That's one.

 

Don't forget I'm not mapping it, so Dave at Emerald can plug into the ECU 'with his long lead' either directly into the engine bay or with me using my current data cable into the passenger compartment through the window.

 

[Sandy 191]

You should see it now!

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

You should see it now!

 

 

You tease you!

 

Well it now has a set of 405 Mi16 grey leather seats to go in it. Mmmmm: plush, fast motoring.

 

I know the new rad arrived and I'll bring the St Tropez valance down in November and hopefully bring some pasties over for you guys. No windy walks though Mr Brown!!!

 

BTW Sandy, do you fancy having a pop on your rolling road at the re-map to incorporate the staged injectors?

Edited September 30, 2009 by DrSarty

[gti_al 1]

405 leather seats aren't exactly comfortable. I had a set in for a couple of years, and i couldn't believe how much better it is back with 205 seats when i changed them

 

If you are going to the trouble to adapt something, get a better seat to start with. 405 don't look right either, as they don't have the side cushioning like a 205 one

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Well by what could be called a stroke of luck, the eGay 405 Mi seat purchase fell through. The seller got in touch saying he was sorry, but they sold two days before.

 

 

I'll revert back to plan A which is one of my half leather interiors being reupholstered in new black leather. I agree with the comments and opinions on the 405 seats as TBH I've always loved the 205 ones. My new seats will be special though.

 

Below some pics from Colin. He's been fairly brutal to make it a shell that will last decades again, even whipping the screen out to sort a bit on the corner.

 

Gaz components soon to be ordered to get things like the rear turret height sorted; details will follow. Colin is very aware that this is to be a fast road car so is choosing components to suit.

 

This is the calm before the storm I guess, but it's definitely moving along now:

 

In the last pic you can see how Colin's been fiddling with my tunnel!

[Sandy 191]

We can review the map not a problem.

[Galifrey 1]

Watching this with interest, the last thread was an Epic!

[Bonzai 2]

Well by what could be called a stroke of luck, the eGay 405 Mi seat purchase fell through. The seller got in touch saying he was sorry, but they sold two days before.

 

 

What you want is a pair of ATR recaro's! Best seat i ever sat in, and then some

 

i.e link

[welshpug 1,657]

that front end repair, pretty much what I need done on mine!

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

I'm loving those seats Ben.

 

They're not an essential, but could be if they came in red and black.

[jonnygoodhand 0]

Something Like these? They look very similar to Clio Trophy Seats, though these went for a little more than the Accord seats! But while on the subject of seats and Clios, how about these? Quite a popular design, but seem to fit nicely in a small car and look a million dollars!

Edited October 1, 2009 by jonnygoodhand

[kyepan 291]

would be interesting if you could keep the standard seats, but improve them with better bolster design. that way it would look standard, but be improved.

[Bonzai 2]

I'm loving those seats Ben.

 

They're not an essential, but could be if they came in red and black.

 

They did in the ATR, but they are quite rare. Not a great pic:

 

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f140/iri.../P1010071-1.jpg

 

These are for sale on the forum at £400 i believe, but not to my liking

 

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f140/iri.../P1010074-2.jpg

 

The seats are also fitted to mitsi evo 5/6 as well as the clio, apparently

[willmounsey 1]

Nice to see your project coming on Rich, I like Colin's handy work (wish my metal fabrication was as good!) looking forward to seeing more.

 

I agree with Kyepan, also I think the original seat would look more in place than an alternative, i've scrapped the idea off fitting celica ss3 seats in mine for the originals but to get them retrimmed.

 

Looking forward to more pic's mate

 

Will