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Rich_p

Super Unleaded

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Rich_p

Will running super make much odds in an old 1.9 lump? Or should I just stick to normal.

 

I ask as I'm setting the car up this weekend with the Help of Boombang so I guess I should keep using the same ron fuel that's in the car when we set it up.

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welshpug

if you set it up on it you'll get a little bit more yes.

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jord294

i'd recommend it to anyone

 

ever since i had a ctr, i've used it. i always tend to use either esso or shell v-power

 

i'm running it in the miami, and since skip brown tuned it, and i done the head gasket, i now get approx 350 miles to the tank, compared to 280 miles when i first bought it

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j_turnell

I notice a fair difference when running it on my 1.6, you just need to advance the ignition timing a few degrees.

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Anthony
Will running super make much odds in an old 1.9 lump? Or should I just stick to normal.

Strictly speaking, 1.9 8v non-CAT's need SUL and will pink on regular UL with the ignition timing set as it was from the factory, and Peugeot never officially specified 1.9's as able to use unleaded with the ignition retarded, unlike most other models including 1.6 GTi's. Of course, many people have retarded the ignition anyway, which noticeably reduces performance and makes the engine feel much less eager - as a matter of course I'd sort the timing out and run on SUL all the time, and the improved economy will normally make up for the extra cost.

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Rom

As above. Its worth using, providing you set up the timing for it. Pointless if timing is setup for UL.

 

I have always run my Mi on V Power.

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kyepan

of course 3 row mi's with knock detection advance it on super and retard on normal.

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dino20vt
of course 3 row mi's with knock detection advance it on super and retard on normal.

 

What about 2 row without knock detection?

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Grim.Badger
Will running super make much odds in an old 1.9 lump? Or should I just stick to normal.

 

Imagine the difference between the zombies in Night of the Living Dead and the ones in 28 Days Later; that's the difference between a 1.9 on UL and SUL :rolleyes:

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AndyJ

I run a 2 row Mi and there is a difference with super, mine tends to wake up in the midrange, before it hits the magic 4500 :rolleyes: althoguh i havent got figures to back it up i'm afraid, it'll also depend on which octane coding resistor, if any, you have in the loom.

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mhyphenl
I run a 2 row Mi and there is a difference with super, mine tends to wake up in the midrange, before it hits the magic 4500 :rolleyes: althoguh i havent got figures to back it up i'm afraid, it'll also depend on which octane coding resistor, if any, you have in the loom.

 

 

Is that the injector matching resistor as its called in the haynes. What does none do and how does the resistor alter it? Also where do you get one from?? Always wanted to know!!

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boombang
Will running super make much odds in an old 1.9 lump? Or should I just stick to normal.

 

I ask as I'm setting the car up this weekend with the Help of Boombang so I guess I should keep using the same ron fuel that's in the car when we set it up.

 

Nice to meet you Rich, just shame didn't all go to plan!

 

Car comes in jumpy and lacking smoothness.

 

Turned out after a bit of checking that the vac advance had completely gone (could suck through the diaphram with no resistance), so was sucking in a fair bit of unmetered air. Whacked a good vaccuum bit onto his dizzy to find out that the leads on it were falling apart.

 

Stuck on a set of spare leads I had, got a load of lovely shocks trying to get the dizzy in a decent place due to a split king lead cover.

 

Now it's not leaking air in, you can feel it over-fuelling a lot. AFM settings right, couldn't get a reading off the ECU coolant temp sender (infinite resistance). Did try a spare coolant sender I had, and the one on my car, couldn't get a reading off any of them ;)

 

Tested the multi-meter on a couple of other things and worked fine, surely can't have 3 busted temp senders?

 

Rich is off to get a new sender, give that a blast and see how he gets on. Just hopefully this'll solve it.

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Grim.Badger

Christ that must have been running badly; I knew Rich wasn't too happy with his 309, I guess this explains it a bit ;) Hope it gets sorted :) The 1.9 is a great engine once it's running right.

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Baz
What about 2 row without knock detection?

 

Should technically only be run on SUL.

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taylorspug

IIRC all MIs are reccommended to use 97 RON or higher unleaded. Ive always used Optimax in my MI and GTI6, the MI ran far better than using normal unleaded and got better fuel mileage. Plus when opened up the combustion chambers and valves looked immaculate.

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Rich_p

Cheers for today Alex.

 

Just thinking could we have knocked the ignition amp or is it possible something inside the dizzy has gone astray when the new vacuum unit was fitted?

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boombang
Cheers for today Alex.

 

Just thinking could we have knocked the ignition amp or is it possible something inside the dizzy has gone astray when the new vacuum unit was fitted?

 

Ignition amp on yours with the later setup is over left side of bay, was unplugged to check voltage to AFM whilst cranking as per the Haynes test, and gave correct reading - then was plugged back in. Pulling plugs after it was running rough for a while gave no indication of wetness or the like (although don't think pulled all 4 plugs as they were very very tight).

 

Dizzy worked fine before and only the vaccuum unit was swapped. Still have your knackered one here if you wanted to come swap it back and see if it goes to how it was before?

 

Do hope it is the temp sender as would make solving the issue nice and easy!

Edited by boombang

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AndyJ
Is that the injector matching resistor as its called in the haynes. What does none do and how does the resistor alter it? Also where do you get one from?? Always wanted to know!!

 

All "as far as i can remember", i read up on it a while ago but I cant find what i read right now... all it does is retards the ignition map to allow use of lower octane fuels without knocking. Cos the MI16 has a fixed distributor you can't just turn the dizzy round, so the resistor is there for the same effect. If there's no resistor installed it will be running for 97 RON iirc, i assume you can get the plugs from pug, or at least used to be able to.

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Rich_p
Ignition amp on yours with the later setup is over left side of bay, was unplugged to check voltage to AFM whilst cranking as per the Haynes test, and gave correct reading - then was plugged back in. Pulling plugs after it was running rough for a while gave no indication of wetness or the like (although don't think pulled all 4 plugs as they were very very tight).

 

Dizzy worked fine before and only the vaccuum unit was swapped. Still have your knackered one here if you wanted to come swap it back and see if it goes to how it was before?

 

Do hope it is the temp sender as would make solving the issue nice and easy!

 

 

I was just reading up on the vacuum advance unit & am wondering if it's on the mounting peg inside the dizzy correctly?

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Dylan l

What ignition amp/module are you running as running a bosch unit is like night and day compared to other model/make.

 

They all make a spark but the bosch spark is so much better and make it pull cleaner.

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boombang
I was just reading up on the vacuum advance unit & am wondering if it's on the mounting peg inside the dizzy correctly?

 

Easy enough to check. Unplug the hose from the throttle body to vaccuum unit, block it off. Run another to the vaccuum unit & suck it. If revs change it's working.

 

If it wasn't working, then the engine would be running as before in terms of timing, just would not have the air leak leaning air/fuel mix.

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davey205
Easy enough to check. Unplug the hose from the throttle body to vaccuum unit, block it off. Run another to the vaccuum unit & suck it. If revs change it's working.

 

If it wasn't working, then the engine would be running as before in terms of timing, just would not have the air leak leaning air/fuel mix.

any point to super on a 1600?

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SurGie

It helps keep engine clean from carbon deposits etc...

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Rich_p

New leads haven't cured it, I'm going to check they are on the right way round tomorrow just incase it's something silly like that.

 

I tried sucking the vacuum advance pipe & the revs didn't change. I did forget to block the hole off on the throttle body though incase that makes a difference when testing?

 

It idles so slowly now, chugging like an old boat & it sounds odd.

 

If you fully open the throttle there is a couple of second delay then the revs rise very very slowly & it sounds strangled.

 

I guess I should start a proper thread about this unless one of the mods can take all the posts from boombangs first onwards & create a new one for me please?

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Baz
any point to super on a 1600?

 

Yes, properly set up for it can yield the same benefits on a 1.6 as already spoken about.

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