[Car_Overhaul] My Reshell Project

[Kenno 3 2 Cars]

Good work there, Will have to pop down & see you.

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

Couple of days off work - today and tomorrow.

Spent most of today trying to align the bonnet striker - still doesn't want to f***ing shut.

No photo's too angry!

Edited May 14, 2009 by Simes

[miamichris 9]

we all have those days simon chin up mate!

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

So where were we - oh yes trying to shut the bonnet down!
well it just wasn't working so I went and did some thing else...namely remove all the interior from car and then refit my old bright red carpet.

 

Very bright - and now one of our bedrooms looks like this



and the hallway like this



Back to the bonnet though and I think I've identified the problem. On this car from what I remember the bonnet was always a bit difficult to shut. I'd only ever shut it once befere removing the slam panel and then everything else.

This was the problem



Could it be striking the radiator? It got a bit bent in the accident



I played around with it seeing if anyting was catching - best thing to do was remove it....but..

After measuring up the striker on this and my old bonnet it seems this one was set 5mm shorter. Trying to adjust it was not going to happen as it had welded itself tight I had to think of another plan.

 

 

other bonnet

Mmmm a bonnet swap!



That's fixed the issue now which is great. Glad I took two days off work to sort that - what a complete waste of holiday!!!
Anyway radiator, fan, lights, windscreen washer bottle etc and all front harmess electrics connected and ready to go, also swapped my old 'new' front indicators over.
Away this weekend in France, so no garage time - although I suspect i'll be helping my dad bleed the brakes on his 1953 Austin Somerset

Edited December 15, 2012 by Simes

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

Quick update -

Got the brakes sorted on the Somerset - almost stops now!

 

Should have an update on the 205 shortly.

[HERMAN 33]

Hello Simes just to let you know that the engine that you sold my mate is fitted and runing. It looks like it has a ported head and lightend flywheel so that is proberly why is came a part so easily. He as just got to get it mot'ed and then it is on the road. It has took a little longer than he thought because he needed to rebuild the rear beam first.

Thanks

Neil and Craig

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

Hello Simes just to let you know that the engine that you sold my mate is fitted and runing. It looks like it has a ported head and lightend flywheel so that is proberly why is came a part so easily. He as just got to get it mot'ed and then it is on the road. It has took a little longer than he thought because he needed to rebuild the rear beam first.

Thanks

Neil and Craig

 

That's brilliant both the headwork and it running.

 

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

So what's new......

When I refitted the brakes I noticed the M/C was a bit dodgy. My replacement from the write off was only 10,000miles old so that's now on.




I sold my old exhaust (possibly a bit too early!) so I've been unable to run the car for longer than about 1 minute. I had Miles get a section made up to join the maniflow and standard exhaust section together. I'm pleased as it fits like a glove (my measurements and sketch were accurate)

By using these two items I've now managed to seal it all up.



Since I did all this around 3 weeks ago - I've been out on my test track and got it running nicely. Lots of stamping on the brakes cleaned up the 6 months build of rust so they stop well now. I had a bad idle and general missfire which was due to a couple of HT leads working loose. The AFM also needed plugging a little better.

I should have an update for you later today - Alarm fit, dashboards nearly all back in and just some tweaks for MOT.

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

Quick update:

MOT'd, passed

 

 

Sad day though as G962 went to the scrapyard.

 

 

 

 

 

However - we're about to drive to the FRench/Spanish border in thos one next week!

 

[base-1 17]

Good work!

[Oberon 0]

Getting there simon, good news about the mot.

 

Having seen the car in the metal I have to say it is a very nice example.

 

I can see from the work your putting into this that its gonna be a real corker.

 

Nice work, keep it up.

 

 

Pm'ed you about that door, Cheers Raj.

[CosKev 16]

Excellent thread,great read

 

How did you find the Toad alarm was to fit?????

[cybernck 402 1 Cars]

None of the photos load up or is it just me?

[welshpug 1,661]

I can see them

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

I can see them

 

 

Me too!

 

Might add a few things to this soon.

[miamichris 9]

I'd also like to know any tips for fitting the toad alarm you have Simes, as I plan to fit one on my gti project when the time comes

[GLPoomobile 958]

Chris, have a Google for Toad Ai606 installation instructions. I read a guide the other day and it actually looks dead simple. So simple that even I'd consider giving it a go, and alarms have always scrared me a bit. Mind you, I'm thinking from the blank canvas perspective, whereas if you've got a badly wired alarm already you've got a bit more work to do

[Alastairh 47]

GLP, you don't even have to go as far as google, a quick search on here found the results:

 

Anthony:

 

Right, the wiring you need to connect to on the 205 loom side of things is as follows (cut and paste from one of the threads):

 

For those of you with Phase 2 GTi's with remote central locking as standard, I'll save you the hassle of working out the wiring - it's a negative pulse based system, and you need to connect the LOCK wire from the alarm (grey) to pin 8 of the underdash locking relay (on the side of the steering column), and the UNLOCK (blue) to pin 6.

 

As for the other wires you'll likely need from the 205 loom to splice/cut - the wire numbers are correct, and the colours were as they were on my car (but might be different on yours as Peugeot were a bit inconsistant with the colours):

 

Wire #1 (Red) - Constant +12v

Wire #2 (Red) - Ignition

Wire #46 (White) - Starter

Wire #48 (Grey) - Left Indicator

Wire #49 (White) - Right Indicator

Wire #76 (White) - Fuel pump

 

For the alarm side of things, the wires are as follows (another cut and paste):

 

 

OK, heres a list of the wires that you'll need - the others can be bound up out of the way:

 

Black cable with Red Tag - Permanent 12v

Brown/Green cable - Indicator 12v power feed

2 x Black cable with Green Tag - Ground

Black cable with Orange Tag - Ignition

Green cable - Negative door switch

2 x Black cable with White Tag - Immobilisation circuit 1

2 x Black cable with Blue Tag - Immobilisation circuit 2

Black/Green + Black/White cables - Indicator output

Grey cable (on siren loom) - Bonnet switch

Grey/white cable - Boot switch

Red/Black + Red/Yellow cables - Ground for central locking

Blue/Red - Unlock

Grey/Red - Lock

 

Hope that helps,

 

Al

[GLPoomobile 958]

Anthony's guide is handy for the 205 specific side of things, but this is the link to what I was reading the other day. Goes in to the basics in real laymans terms, and makes it seem simple (although there was a couple of bits I disagree with, but can't remember specifically what. Think he connected the starter solenoid to both immobiliser circuits or something).

Edited December 17, 2009 by GLPoomobile

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

Anyway back on topic -

 

After the reshell, well in fact after the engine was originally rebuilt by Miles back in 2004 we were always aware that it needed 'mapping' to make use of the slightly wilder cams....it has only taken me 5 years to do this!

 

With the cold weather setting in and the fact that I don't have the time to tinker on the car at the moment and after a quick chat with Miles it seemed the best idea was to take it back down to his workshop for some more work.

 

Car now back from Miles where 'she's' received the following work:

 

Removed:

 

3-row loom, AFM, Mi16 inlet manifold, ECU, dizzy cap, ignition amp etc etc.

 

Installed:

 

New loom and importantly new plugs etc

Emerald ECU

GTI-6 inlet manifold

Air Filter

Coil pack

etc.

 

Work is exemplary as usual.

 

Car was then trailered to a garage local to Miles who then carried out the mapping.

 

Well, I must say the power delivery is very pleasant and the car feels a lot more 'powerful'. My trip back home along the Autobahn last night was keeping me very amused especially now the way the torque is delivered in a very linear fashion. 3.5k onwards is even more amazing than it used to be, overtaking is no problem.

 

:)

 

I'm sure I'll be back for some TB's at some point.....probably best to get my wedding out of the way.

Edited December 23, 2009 by Simes

[Galifrey 1]

Ah so it was your car Miles was having mapped...

 

Nice result, you must be pleased after 5 years deliberation

[James_m 0]

Any power figures?

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

Well.....

 

We got 171bhp & 140lb ft torque which is good, the unit pulls in a much more linear fashion and the power is instantaneous. It's much more responsive over 3krpm and overall I'm very happy with the performance. I've had power readings prior to this work over the last few years on a selection of rolling roads with 174 being recorded so returning to those particular rollers I would expect to see 180bhp.

The rollers we used for this are known to read under and this has been confirmed by other standard cars running on there. Also the mapping is not yet finished including cold start and idle.

 

Anyway it's off to Dave Walker in the New Year to work his magic on the finer points.

 

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Nice one Simes. The important thing being that you're enjoying it.

 

Dunno if you have, but you may gain something by removing the resonance chamber from the '6 inlet if you haven't already done so, and before the mapping at Dave's I mean.

 

Keep us posted and best of luck. I'll be at Emerald a few times next year; that's my resolution.

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

As I rushed the mapping before Christmas we didn't get a chance to sort out the the idle and cold start. So I'm off to Dave Walkers next week to sort those bits out. I'm also going to set the ECU up to hold three maps and be able to switch between them on the fly.

 

I'm thinking:

 

Map 1 - MOT map, idle leaned off to avoid excessive HC's. Also with revs limited to 3000rpm to avoid mechanic thrashing it around the block

Map 2 - Leaned off at higher revs for thrifty motorway cruising

Map 3 - Sport mode!