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Mr Bob

S16 Not Starting

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Mr Bob

Ok this is in a 306 not a 205 but you guys seem more technically minded than any other fourm so will give it a bash here.

 

Right to get you up to speed on things:

 

I have a 306 with a 2.0 8v engine (xu10j2 i beileve)

 

That was removed and I have fitted the engine, loom and ecu from a 306 s16 (ux10j4?) still using the engine bay/fusebox loom from the 8v

 

Everythings gone in nicely no odd plugs/connectors missing etc

 

Whent for its 1st start up yesterday and it wont start, it turns over on the starter motor but wont start as if its immobiliser isnt letting it but Im sure it came from an s16 that didnt have an immobiliser

 

All the lights on the dash board come on as they should except the engine diagnostic light which doesnt come on at all

The keypad for the 8v immobiliser has a constant green light (theres no immobiliser on the S16 ecu I think)

The fuel pump wont run (it did when I bridged its fuse with a 12v supply)

Haven't checked the spark yet

 

Anyone got an idea? Maybe experienced this as well?

I dont know anything about the ecu/wiring side of things but is there like a locked or safe mode the ecu might have gone in to that wont let it start?

 

Thanks

Bob

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M@tt

do these have a double relay?

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Mr Bob

you mean the big brown one behind the ECU box?

 

if so yes

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welshpug

yes, check that it's getting its relevant permanent lives and switched live :D

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Mr Bob

where could i get a list or diagram of the live and switched live pins for the relay and ecu?

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M@tt

DocName3.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/meb...ams/DocName.jpg

 

in essence though at the double relay you want to have

 

switched 12v at pin 3 (maybe pin 2 - these 2 are sometimes interchangable)

permanent 12v at pins 8,11,14,15

 

at the ECU you want

 

switched 12v at pin 27

permanent 12v at pin 18

 

check those as a starter

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Mr Bob

right on the double relay 2 and 12 have no pins, 3 is switched live, 8 is constant live as is 11, 14 and 15

 

on the ecu

 

36 is a constant live at 12v's

 

2, 3, 13, and 43 are switched lives at 9v's and 36 drops to 9v's when the ignitions on

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M@tt

right well you need a switched live to pin 27 of the ECU plug. You need to find the where that wire goes to and join it to the switched 12vfeed.

 

You also need to have a permananet 12v to ECU pin 18 as well, without those it wan't run

 

HTH

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Mr Bob

still nothing.

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M@tt

you mean you've not go voltage to those pins? (27 & 18?)

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Mr Bob
you mean you've not go voltage to those pins? (27 & 18?)

 

i ran a 12v supply to these pins and it still wouldnt start,

 

i have had a thought however, i think the fuel cut off switch is broken so i am gonna try bridging that and see if it helps any

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Mr Bob

right briged the fuel cut out switch and sent my ecu away too get unlocked and still... it wont start, really stuck here, dont have a clue what to do next and i am left with a car that wont start!!

Edited by Mr Bob

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M@tt

right when you turn the igniton on do you hear the double relay click once? (you should do)

 

Then try holding the relay in one hand and try to start the engine, can you feel the second relay in the double relay click? it should click once as the engine's spinning over.

 

Have you got the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) fitted in the top of the gearbox housing and plugged into the loom? do you have a spare one you can try?

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Mr Bob

right it clicks with the ignition on but not when turning over

 

also theres no spark

 

yes there is a CPS on the gear box and yes its conected up, i may have another off the s16's gear box but i dont know if it works

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M@tt

The power for the fuel pump and coil pack is supplied by that second relay in the double relay when it closes. It's closed by the ECU when it detects the engine is spinning by the CPS.

 

Can you try the other CPS as a quick test.

 

Failing that if you could expose a bit of wire on pin 10 of the double relay and run that to battery -ve that will cause fuel pump to run and coils to have 12v so try cranking it over and see what happens.

 

EDIT> Also have you made sure all the earths on the loom are earthed properly and that the gearbox is earthed to the shell and the negative terminal of the battery

Edited by M@tt

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Mr Bob
The power for the fuel pump and coil pack is supplied by that second relay in the double relay when it closes. It's closed by the ECU when it detects the engine is spinning by the CPS.

 

Can you try the other CPS as a quick test.

 

Failing that if you could expose a bit of wire on pin 10 of the double relay and run that to battery -ve that will cause fuel pump to run and coils to have 12v so try cranking it over and see what happens.

 

 

will have ago but did you say put pin 10 to the battery neg or pos? i dont wanna read it wrong and damage something!

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M@tt

put pin 10 to neagtive

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Mr Bob
put pin 10 to neagtive

 

thanks... gonna try it

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Mr Bob

right earthed pin 10s wire and still nothing, havent changed the cps yet as it kinda awkward to get in to so ill need a wee bit of tim to work on it and its not long till i start work

 

any other ideas?

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