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Paul_13

[trackday_prep] Paul's Gti6

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xxvickyxx

its looking good

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Paul_13

Why thank you very much!

 

Nice looking motor you have aswell, MI'ing it I see

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Paul_13

Can any body tell me what this plug is for?

One of the blue plugs is the oil temperature (i think) and there is another plug on the same stretch of loom.

 

p1010230.th.jpg

 

Nearly there with the conversion, all I need now is belt kit, clutch and engine mounts! :rolleyes:

 

Thanks

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Spiky

i think, and the best way would be to take the two brown connector looms off and put a multi metre on

 

the one on the right looks to be the oil temp where as the one on the left is for the power steer

 

you probably fine one is oil temp and the other is surplus :lol:

 

going further up the page the brown and black are purge canister and inertia switch :rolleyes:

 

ignore the brown

the other you can either get an inertia switch or join the two wire together :D

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Paul_13

Is another name for the inertia switch, a fuel cut-off switch?

 

If thats the case i've got one :lol:

 

I havent got PAS so i'll just swap the plugs over if I get no reading.

 

Cheers Spiky!

 

:rolleyes:

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Spiky

yeah diferent name :rolleyes:

 

if you put the ignition on and earth out the one on the right, the oil temp gauge will probably go from nothing to full (same for the left)

 

earth out pin 1

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Spiky

pin 7 of the 9 pin plug is oil temp if you want to use a multi metre to confirm the cable :rolleyes:

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Paul_13

Cheers i'll give that a go at the weekend, when i'm in my mates garage :rolleyes:

 

Just going to send the grille off now for ya

 

Paul

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Paul_13

Just managed to find a continental cambelt kit for £47! And a BX16V clutch aswell, picking these up Friday and hopefully drop the engine in! :D

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rubyna
  paul_xiii said:
Just managed to find a continental cambelt kit for £47! And a BX16V clutch aswell, picking these up Friday and hopefully drop the engine in! :D

Paul if i was you id go for an original pug cambelt kit,worth the extra few £s for such critical parts

that you dont want to fail..

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Paul_13

I was speaking to my mate who owns a 6 and apparently the company supplies Peugeot with the bits.

Don't know if he's talking out his arse, but he's been running his now for a good 55,000 with no problems.

 

How much is the kit from Peugeot?

I'm on service box but I cant seem to acquire a price

 

The belt only going to be on for a short while, until I get my arse in gear and do the 88mm crank conversion.

Edited by paul_xiii

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Paul_13

Stayed up till 4am last night doing work to the beast, got quite a few things done few piccies:

 

Finally found one, thanks to someone on the 306gti6 forum.

dsc00404c.th.jpg

 

Clutch on, made a allignment tool out of a few sockets, worked well. Forgot to take it out though when I was tightening it up and wondered why it was taking forever.

Am I right in thinking it's a push type clutch as I've only ever worked with pull type.

 

dsc00410k.th.jpg

 

All timed, what a B*tch this was to get right!

 

dsc00405l.th.jpg

 

I used a sump plug tool to set the timing, worked spot on!

 

dsc00407x.th.jpg

 

Nearly there :unsure:

 

dsc00409blx.th.jpg

 

Question for Spiky or any one who knows the answer, what are these two ring connectors for? One had constant live written on it.

 

dsc00408b.th.jpg

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Rob Turbo

The constant live one (larger one I presume) will bolt to the starter or alternator along with the battery cable, so it gets a constant live feed while the battery is connected, the other, smaller one, looks like either the charge light wire, which will go to the smaller terminal on the alternator, that's if it's a thin wire (usually brown wire IIRC), if it's thicker than most other wires in the loom then it will be the starter switch wire, so will go to the small terminal on the starter (usually blue wire)

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Paul_13

Just clicked :unsure: Cheers Rob!

 

Going to have a go at fabricating some seat rails later with my mates new shiny welder :)

 

Pretty sure it's the blue wire going to the starter solenoid.

Edited by paul_xiii

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Spiky

yeah, your loom , (not all do) requried a constant live :unsure: so i labelled it up

 

it should (cant rememeber which i did) end up near the alternator ot starter, so just put it on the same as the big cable that goes to the battery :)

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Paul_13

Cheers Spiky, everything has been spot on with the loom so far. I managed to work out today where the ring connectors go.

Never realised how much of a C it is to get the engine in. I had to put the manifold in place first, it took three of us to get the top mount bolted on!.

The looms all plugged in except for the the injectors which should be arriving during the week.

 

I'm a happy man :D

 

dsc00411o.th.jpg

 

Near enough no clearance at the moment, even with the MC angled with washers, only got the top mount on at the moment due to me being a div and throwing some of the standard ones away...

 

dsc00412b.th.jpg

 

I'm guessing these are the earths for the coil packs? They're right near the thermo housing once the loom's all in place.

 

dsc00413pmq.th.jpg

 

Thanks for everyones help so far, will be getting her roared up next weekend... If my bits turn up lol

 

 

I can't wait! :blink:

Edited by paul_xiii

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Spiky

cool, getting there,

 

the earths bolt to the side of the head :blink:, near the vacum pump

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Paul_13

Has any one fitted one of these before? It's the oil pressure adapter off Miles

 

oilpressure.th.jpg

 

I'm confused to what inserts into it.

I bought a loom off Spiky, would this make it redundant?

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Rob Turbo

I bought one of them adaptors, not off miles, and I wasn't too impressed with it, it screws into the block where your oil pressure switch goes (above the oil filter), then you screw the oil pressure switch into the end of it and an oil pressure gauge sender into the side, the one I have has a 1/8 bsp thread on the side for aftermarket senders, which is exactly what I was after, but the standard pressure switch didn't fit in the end properly, the threads weren't deep enough so the sensor hit the bottom before there was any pressure on the copper washer, meaning I ended up with an oil leak!

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Paul_13

So have I bought a dud :). I'm unsure to what the oil pressure switch looks like. Is it the 205 item I have to install or the 306?

 

I'll give it a go at the weekend I'll probably end up buying an after market dial

Edited by paul_xiii

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Rob Turbo

Use the 205 sender, although they are both probably the same, I'm not 100% sure but you might be able to use an aftermarket sender for the standard pressure gauge, that's what I'm hoping anyway!

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Miles

It's far from a Dud,

I have used loads of these and you get a true reading of the oil pressure (As much as you can) from the 205 sensor as the 306 one read's low on the 205 dash

Just screw it into the block use the blanking plug/oil switch in the end and the oil sender in the side, Some copper washer's and I always use some RTV, Never had one leak a ounce of oil.

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Rob Turbo

What thread do yours have in the side Miles? Is it 1/8 bsp like the one I have? If so, do the aftermarket senders work the oil pressure gauge on the 205 dash ok?

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taylorspug

Ive also used a few, i always use them on conversions now in fact to retain the correctly calibrated oil pressure gauge etc. Ive never had one leak either, as long as you use copper washers and some PTFE on the oil pressure gauge sender they have been fine. :)

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