[trackday_prep] Paul's Gti6

[mattbenselin 0]

Cheers Paul.... Cruise control topic

[xxvickyxx 0]

its looking good

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Why thank you very much!

 

Nice looking motor you have aswell, MI'ing it I see

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Can any body tell me what this plug is for?

One of the blue plugs is the oil temperature (i think) and there is another plug on the same stretch of loom.

 

 

Nearly there with the conversion, all I need now is belt kit, clutch and engine mounts!

 

Thanks

[Spiky 37]

i think, and the best way would be to take the two brown connector looms off and put a multi metre on

 

the one on the right looks to be the oil temp where as the one on the left is for the power steer

 

you probably fine one is oil temp and the other is surplus

 

going further up the page the brown and black are purge canister and inertia switch

 

ignore the brown

the other you can either get an inertia switch or join the two wire together

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Is another name for the inertia switch, a fuel cut-off switch?

 

If thats the case i've got one

 

I havent got PAS so i'll just swap the plugs over if I get no reading.

 

Cheers Spiky!

 

[Spiky 37]

yeah diferent name

 

if you put the ignition on and earth out the one on the right, the oil temp gauge will probably go from nothing to full (same for the left)

 

earth out pin 1

[Spiky 37]

pin 7 of the 9 pin plug is oil temp if you want to use a multi metre to confirm the cable

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Cheers i'll give that a go at the weekend, when i'm in my mates garage

 

Just going to send the grille off now for ya

 

Paul

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Just managed to find a continental cambelt kit for £47! And a BX16V clutch aswell, picking these up Friday and hopefully drop the engine in!

[rubyna 4 1 Cars]

Just managed to find a continental cambelt kit for £47! And a BX16V clutch aswell, picking these up Friday and hopefully drop the engine in!

Paul if i was you id go for an original pug cambelt kit,worth the extra few £s for such critical parts

that you dont want to fail..

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

I was speaking to my mate who owns a 6 and apparently the company supplies Peugeot with the bits.

Don't know if he's talking out his arse, but he's been running his now for a good 55,000 with no problems.

 

How much is the kit from Peugeot?

I'm on service box but I cant seem to acquire a price

 

The belt only going to be on for a short while, until I get my arse in gear and do the 88mm crank conversion.

Edited June 8, 2009 by paul_xiii

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Stayed up till 4am last night doing work to the beast, got quite a few things done few piccies:

 

Finally found one, thanks to someone on the 306gti6 forum.

 

Clutch on, made a allignment tool out of a few sockets, worked well. Forgot to take it out though when I was tightening it up and wondered why it was taking forever.

Am I right in thinking it's a push type clutch as I've only ever worked with pull type.

 

 

All timed, what a B*tch this was to get right!

 

 

I used a sump plug tool to set the timing, worked spot on!

 

 

Nearly there

 

 

Question for Spiky or any one who knows the answer, what are these two ring connectors for? One had constant live written on it.

 

[Rob Turbo 3]

The constant live one (larger one I presume) will bolt to the starter or alternator along with the battery cable, so it gets a constant live feed while the battery is connected, the other, smaller one, looks like either the charge light wire, which will go to the smaller terminal on the alternator, that's if it's a thin wire (usually brown wire IIRC), if it's thicker than most other wires in the loom then it will be the starter switch wire, so will go to the small terminal on the starter (usually blue wire)

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Just clicked Cheers Rob!

 

Going to have a go at fabricating some seat rails later with my mates new shiny welder

 

Pretty sure it's the blue wire going to the starter solenoid.

Edited June 14, 2009 by paul_xiii

[Spiky 37]

yeah, your loom , (not all do) requried a constant live so i labelled it up

 

it should (cant rememeber which i did) end up near the alternator ot starter, so just put it on the same as the big cable that goes to the battery

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Cheers Spiky, everything has been spot on with the loom so far. I managed to work out today where the ring connectors go.

Never realised how much of a C it is to get the engine in. I had to put the manifold in place first, it took three of us to get the top mount bolted on!.

The looms all plugged in except for the the injectors which should be arriving during the week.

 

I'm a happy man

 

 

Near enough no clearance at the moment, even with the MC angled with washers, only got the top mount on at the moment due to me being a div and throwing some of the standard ones away...

 

 

I'm guessing these are the earths for the coil packs? They're right near the thermo housing once the loom's all in place.

 

 

Thanks for everyones help so far, will be getting her roared up next weekend... If my bits turn up lol

 

 

I can't wait!

Edited June 14, 2009 by paul_xiii

[Spiky 37]

cool, getting there,

 

the earths bolt to the side of the head , near the vacum pump

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Has any one fitted one of these before? It's the oil pressure adapter off Miles

 

 

I'm confused to what inserts into it.

I bought a loom off Spiky, would this make it redundant?

[Rob Turbo 3]

I bought one of them adaptors, not off miles, and I wasn't too impressed with it, it screws into the block where your oil pressure switch goes (above the oil filter), then you screw the oil pressure switch into the end of it and an oil pressure gauge sender into the side, the one I have has a 1/8 bsp thread on the side for aftermarket senders, which is exactly what I was after, but the standard pressure switch didn't fit in the end properly, the threads weren't deep enough so the sensor hit the bottom before there was any pressure on the copper washer, meaning I ended up with an oil leak!

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

So have I bought a dud . I'm unsure to what the oil pressure switch looks like. Is it the 205 item I have to install or the 306?

 

I'll give it a go at the weekend I'll probably end up buying an after market dial

Edited June 18, 2009 by paul_xiii

[Rob Turbo 3]

Use the 205 sender, although they are both probably the same, I'm not 100% sure but you might be able to use an aftermarket sender for the standard pressure gauge, that's what I'm hoping anyway!

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

It's far from a Dud,

I have used loads of these and you get a true reading of the oil pressure (As much as you can) from the 205 sensor as the 306 one read's low on the 205 dash

Just screw it into the block use the blanking plug/oil switch in the end and the oil sender in the side, Some copper washer's and I always use some RTV, Never had one leak a ounce of oil.

[Rob Turbo 3]

What thread do yours have in the side Miles? Is it 1/8 bsp like the one I have? If so, do the aftermarket senders work the oil pressure gauge on the 205 dash ok?

[taylorspug 7]

Ive also used a few, i always use them on conversions now in fact to retain the correctly calibrated oil pressure gauge etc. Ive never had one leak either, as long as you use copper washers and some PTFE on the oil pressure gauge sender they have been fine.