Cleaned The Sad Now Reves 200rpm Too High

[davey205 7 1 Cars]

i cleaned the sad to try to correct my cold starting cutting out issues - didnt make any difference lol anyway connected it all back up and now the revs are 200 - 300 rpm too high it was full of crap before so im thinking i need to turn that screw for idle control what do other people think?

Edited March 26, 2009 by davey205

[djinuk 2]

yea . just trun it in a 1/8 of a turn at a time an see what its like, , give it time to settle though. Also i give mine a tiny bit of superglue on the outside as it vibrates its way loose.

[davey205 7 1 Cars]

yea . just trun it in a 1/8 of a turn at a time an see what its like, , give it time to settle though. Also i give mine a tiny bit of superglue on the outside as it vibrates its way loose.

hmm ive adjusted it now even when warm it hunts maybe im not giving it enough time to settle :-( i hope im turning the right screw its right on top of the accelerator box thingy just making sure this is idle control and not mixture because its not clear from looking at my manual so i shud be aiming for a idle of around 900 when warm? ill try that and leave it to settle coz shes hunting like a bitch at the mo

Edited March 26, 2009 by davey205

[richsmells 2]

The idle bleed screw is located on the throttle housing. Remove the the screw and clean it with carb cleaner, give the hole a clean too. While you're doing this you may as well whip the intake pipes off and check the throttle isn't too dirty.

 

When the car is cold, the sad should be open. Turn on the lights, heater blower etc and adjust the idle to around 1000-1100, smooth and not hunting.

 

Take it for a blast, as the sad begins to close up the revs should drop to an acceptable speed when the clutch is dipped, but shouldn't allow the car to stall. This is a transition point, where the sad is beginning to close, but the engine isn't quite warm enough to idle properly without additional air.

 

I have found that advancing the ignition slightly helps smooth out the hunting, then re-adjust the idle screw to suit. Just make sure it doesn't pink under load.

 

It is possible to get these cars to idle relatively smoothly warm or cold, but do bear in mind that they use old skool ignition components, unlike modern cars and parts will have aged, plus they have that lovely, lumpy characteristic as standard.

Edited March 26, 2009 by richsmells

[davey205 7 1 Cars]

The idle bleed screw is located on the throttle housing. Remove the the screw and clean it with carb cleaner, give the hole a clean too. While you're doing this you may as well whip the intake pipes off and check the throttle isn't too dirty.

 

When the car is cold, the sad should be open. Turn on the lights, heater blower etc and adjust the idle to around 1000-1100, smooth and not hunting.

 

Take it for a blast, as the sad begins to close up the revs should drop to an acceptable speed when the clutch is dipped, but shouldn't allow the car to stall. This is a transition point, where the sad is beginning to close, but the engine isn't quite warm enough to idle properly without additional air.

 

I have found that advancing the ignition slightly helps smooth out the hunting, then re-adjust the idle screw to suit. Just make sure it doesn't pink under load.

 

It is possible to get these cars to idle relatively smoothly warm or cold, but do bear in mind that they use old skool ignition components, unlike modern cars and parts will have aged, plus they have that lovely, lumpy characteristic as standard.

ok ill do that it keeps stalling so i take the screw out of the throttle housing and clean up and the holes pipes etc? because at the moment the only way to get it not to stall when dipping the clutch is setting the warm idle at around 1200

[davey205 7 1 Cars]

ok ill do that it keeps stalling so i take the screw out of the throttle housing and clean up and the holes pipes etc? because at the moment the only way to get it not to stall when dipping the clutch is setting the warm idle at around 1200

well that worked but shock horror !! i got mayo in the oil filler this means my headgaskets gone doesnt it ? its just on the bottom of the cap and a little round the top of the hole car seems absolutely fine but now im worried

Edited March 26, 2009 by davey205

[richsmells 2]

well that worked but shock horror !! i got mayo in the oil filler this means my headgaskets gone doesnt it ? its just on the bottom of the cap and a little round the top of the hole car seems absolutely fine but now im worried

 

Umm... no. Do a search. They all do it. It's because the filler is remote and doesn't get hot enough to burn it up, unlike other cars with the oil filler located on the cam cover. It will clear up if you do longer journeys.

Edited March 26, 2009 by richsmells

[davey205 7 1 Cars]

Umm... no. Do a search. They all do it. It's because the filler is remote and doesn't get hot enough to burn it up, unlike other cars with the oil filler located on the cam cover. It will clear up if you do longer journeys.

cool yeah sorry did a search after posted ** i was touching cloth for a moment

[humanz 3]

The idle bleed screw is located on the throttle housing. Remove the the screw and clean it with carb cleaner, give the hole a clean too. While you're doing this you may as well whip the intake pipes off and check the throttle isn't too dirty.

 

If the throttle is dirty, what then? Give it a couple blasts with the carb/induction cleaner too? Should I open and close the throttle plate as well to clean both sides?

[richsmells 2]

Yeah, i wiped it out with a cloth and carb cleaner. You can remove the whole throttle and do a proper job if you want to go crazy.