Tu Bleeding Guide

[shalmaneser 26]

Anyone got a link to one? Said I'd have a look at a friends 1.1 citroen. Just pointers really, where are the bleed holes etc. etc.

 

I reckon its the HG anyway, don't think this car has ever had a coolant change and now its pressuring the water system, but I'm gonna give it a hyrdocarbon check so I'll bleed it through with water first.

[RossD 44]

There is a bleed point on the thermostat housing by the radiator top hose and sometimes in the heater matrix hose that goes into the bulkhead. (Depends on the car).

[DamirGTI 342]

I really hate this stupid coolant system bleeding method on PSA TU engines (pug 205 , citroen AX/Saxo)

 

Which Citroen is that one ? AX or Saxo ?

 

In case of old ones (205/AX) you need to unbolt the expansion bottle and raise it upwards as high as it goes and attach it on the top of the bonnet with some rope cable ties etc. , there will be 3 bleeding nipples (well 2 and one is cap on the radiator) , 1-st one on the pipe near the end of the bulkhead (the one which goes from the bulkhead to the heater matrix) 2-nd one on the thermostat housing and 3-rd one is the cap on the edge of the radiator ..

 

Now , with the expansion bottle raised fully upwards and tied securely , open up the bleeding nipples on the matrix hose and thermostat housing and start filling the system by pouring the coolant inside the engine trough radiator - unscrew by 1/2 turn the cap on the radiator , remove it and start pouring the coolant slowly inside .. when coolant starts to leak out of the nipple No1 and 2 close them and continue with filling until the coolant fully overflows and starts leaking out past the radiator cap filler neck - refit the cap and tight it back 1/2 turn .. Then , fill the expansion bottle all the way up to the top above the maxi mark (but keep it raised all the time !) , start the engine and run it on fast idle (around 1500/2000rmp) + switch the heater on full ... while running carefully "crack open" all the nipples from the No1 to the No3 in order to release the pressure/air build up from the system but keep an eye on the expansion bottle -> it must be full all the time so maintain the level around maxi mark and refill it as needed while you working ..

After say 5/10min of idle switch off the engine , wait a bit and re-bleed again from the nipple No1 to the No3 (again be carefully not to burn your hands) ... top up the exp. bottle as needed up to maxi mark and lower it down on place and secure to the inner with OE clip/tie ..

And go for a 10/15min spin with the heater fully on ... every 5min. stop and "crack open" and close the exp. bottle cap to release the pressure - continue with driving .. afterwards leave the engine to cool down a bit and again re-bleed the system again as described above - lift the exp. bottle , fill it up to the top and start from nipple No1 to the No3 .

 

Saxo/106 is same thing apart from the exp. bottle "lift up/lift down" part , they do not have exp. bottle anyway .. for these ones you'll need - 1/5 or 2L plastic bottle (Coca Cola , mineral water etc. etc.) , cut the bottom of the bottle and stick it top side in the radiator filler neck (like funnel) and this bottle stuffed in the radiator filler neck and filled with the coolant up to the top will be your highest point for system bleeding as in the case of 205/AX exp. bottle lifting - keep it full of coolant all the time while you working on bleeding the system .

 

Have fun (Not !!)

Damir

Edited March 11, 2009 by DamirGTI

[shalmaneser 26]

cheers damir, it's an AX. Don't know why i bother offering to help, there had better be a beer in this for me! i bloody hate bleeding coolant systems...

[Gregg 0]

Good description from Damir about bleeding the early ones, took me nearly an hour to get my g/f's 205 fully bled up, the lack of a temp guage doesn't help either, just an annoying red warning light! I find the later ones (mainly 106/Saxo) much easier to do.