Mi16 Starts And Runs..finally..but -

[jas-E 1]

Hey everyone..

 

I finally got round to finish off working on the 205, and plumbed everything in. Turned the key and it fired first time (fresh rebuilt engine). Need to adjust the idle as it first hovers and then feels like its going to cut off. (I have set the throttle cable so that its fully shut the throttle - is that right for idle?)

 

My oil pressure gauge doesnt work though. When i was cranking the engine late last year (as i had problems with the alarm), i hadn't sealed the cam cover, and there was a lot of oil under the car. It completely soaked my exhaust wrap. Is it safe to assume that there is defo oil going to the head even though the gauge dont work? Anyway i can check the sensor is buggered?

 

Anyway, all was going well - filled the coolant, no oil pressure gauge, tappets getting quieter (but still tapping), no leaks under the car, smoke coming from the exhaust (expected) - slowly getting worse (expected)..getting alot so maybe time to turn the car off....hmmm...turn the key and its still alive!!dammit..ok - just disconnect the batt..remove negative - still going..hmm..remove positive and still going...getting worried now!!picking power off the alternator - had to kill it by pulling the king lead off the rotor cap..!!scary moment i tell you especially with all the smoke coming from the exhaust!couldnt stop laughing after..!

 

Anyway - anyone have any ideas where i might have screwed my wiring from?could it be from the brown multiplugs? I removed my alarm and that was really straight forward where i just matched the colours of the wires and joined them together..

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

Jas

[Anthony 1,003]

Sounds like you've wired the ignition to a source that's always live - easiest way to check is that you should have +12v going to one of the pins on the coil with the ignition on, but not with the ignition off. Check that, and go from there.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

I have to agree with what Anthony said. And what are you up to Jas???? I expected 291BHP from turn of the key!

 

You need a switched live for exactly this reason; to de-energize the coil and switch off the ECU (fuel pump). You need to find out what's receiving a permanent and switched live, inparticular for these 3 things, fuel pump being one place to start. You need to check all of them though, as we need that key to do something which makes the engine run or not.

 

Your solution is fairly simple. Finding how you've made this problem is gonna be a pain in the 'arris!

[jas-E 1]

I have to agree with what Anthony said. And what are you up to Jas???? I expected 291BHP from turn of the key!

 

You need a switched live for exactly this reason; to de-energize the coil and switch off the ECU (fuel pump). You need to find out what's receiving a permanent and switched live, inparticular for these 3 things, fuel pump being one place to start. You need to check all of them though, as we need that key to do something which makes the engine run or not.

 

Your solution is fairly simple. Finding how you've made this problem is gonna be a pain in the 'arris!

 

Hey Rich..

 

Im glad it wasn't 291bhp...would'nt have been able to turn it off - mind you would have prob run out of fuel real quick...!!

 

I checked the coil and i have a permanent 12v there with ignition on and off on pin 3. I seem to remember 2 wires coming out of the coil or ignition amplifier that i had to connect to the ecu loom. I have a feeling thats where i gone wrong so will start there..I tried checking pin 27 of the ecu which i believe should be switched live aswell, but it seemed like it was going to take a while to sort out and was running out of time so will attack that this weekend...

 

On another note - i noticed that the clock inside the car is always on when the battery is connected (even with the key out of the barrel). From the wiring diagram, i noticed that the switched 12v feed from the coil bridges and goes to the instrument panel. Could this problem be as a result of the main problem i got or is it a separate issue..? any thoughts

 

cheers

 

Jas

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

On another note - i noticed that the clock inside the car is always on when the battery is connected (even with the key out of the barrel). From the wiring diagram, i noticed that the switched 12v feed from the coil bridges and goes to the instrument panel. Could this problem be as a result of the main problem i got or is it a separate issue..? any thoughts

 

I'd say 'yes'; this is likely linked to one simple switched/permanent wiring error you have (made).

 

The clock naturally does receive some power while the ignition is off, so it keeps its time. But it then lights up so you can see it better once the ignition is switched on; it shouldn't be like that all the time.

 

Keep us posted, but by finding the coil permanent live I think you've now got to why it wouldn't turn off. But where that originates from, like I said before, is going to be slightly more difficult to find.

[jas-E 1]

I'd say 'yes'; this is likely linked to one simple switched/permanent wiring error you have (made).

 

The clock naturally does receive some power while the ignition is off, so it keeps its time. But it then lights up so you can see it better once the ignition is switched on; it shouldn't be like that all the time.

 

Keep us posted, but by finding the coil permanent live I think you've now got to why it wouldn't turn off. But where that originates from, like I said before, is going to be slightly more difficult to find.

 

Just had a thought..When i turned the key off, it should have killed the fuel pump and injectors. So might be more of an ecu related problem where it links up with the ignition barrel.

 

Il have a play about over the weekend. Cheers mate

[jas-E 1]

Hey guys,

 

Where does the thick red wire coming out of the brown multi plug go to on the engine side..?

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Where does the thick red wire coming out of the brown multi plug go to on the engine side..?

 

Do you have a Haynes manual Jas? The wiring diagram is your friend.

 

I wish I could just tell you, but the way I see it is that the shunt box at the front is just a permanent live distribution box, as one wire comes off the batt pos terminal and then other wires for the fan etc come out. There may also be similar thing for earths IIRC.

 

Switched live wires will be coming through the bulkhead, either in the loom or through a grommet by the fuse box.