[trackday_prep] Cameron's Mi16 / Gti6 Hybrid

[tom_m 0]

True, but I need brakes!

I need an extra pair of hands for that too.

 

or feet

 

pop over to halfords and get yourself a Gunsons pressure bleed kit (the one that uses tyre pressure to push the fluid through the lines) Cam, James and I have one down at the workshop and it works a treat (once you've got it all sealed properly ) it makes brake bleeding a one man job

 

only a week to go!!!

Edited June 29, 2009 by tom_m

[welshpug 1,661]

I've used those one man kits that cost about £4 with great success, the ones that are just a pipe with a valve on the end, some come with a white pot which is clever, but still work as you can see the bubble sin the pipe.

 

or you can get the even cheaper ones without a pipe and use a clear glass jar

[Cameron 16]

I do have one of those Gunson easybleed things but it was s*ite, so I ditched it.

 

I might go and get one of those things in that case, how much are they? Should be cheap on trade. :ninja:

[Cloverleaf 1]

Bicycle inner tube

 

[rubyna 4 1 Cars]

Great idea^^^

Edited June 29, 2009 by rubyna

[Cloverleaf 1]

Further to that, the reason I used that approach was because my Gunsons pressure bleed kit didn't have an adaptor big enough for my after market reservoirs.

[Cameron 16]

Alriiiiiiiight, been fighting through the heat the past coupe of days and got a load of bits done. None of them are all that interesting so I haven't bothered with pictures. Yesterday I wired up the cooling fan so I could finish running the cams in, 20 mins at 2500rpm! Then tonight I've been fitting and bleeding the brakes, I decided to get a Gunson easibleed, it really is easy.

 

So my list of things what need done is:

 

Fitting the doors

Fitting the plastic windows

Repair the damaged arch trim and bond it back on

Reinforce the bonnet for anti-flappage

Temporarily refit the sunroof

Fit the harnesses

Sort out the idle, and try and get the low rpm fuelling a bit better, then take it for a test drive.

 

There is one worrying thing though, there is really very little thread on the eccentric top mounts! The top of the strut is roughly 10mm down inside which means that even though there is 10mm of thread engaged, you can't hold the strut still while you do the nut up.

I'm seriously considering ditching them, they've been more trouble than they're worth. But I'll need to get a new set of standard ones first.

[Cameron 16]

Ohhhh yeahhhhh.

Been busy all week, and now I have a whole load of pics so expect a couple of large posts.

 

Firstly, shortening the downpipe as it was a little too long (still!) and also had to re-angle it slightly. So I chopped the necessary bits out of it and welded it back up. Which is a good opportunity to show off my nice new gas setup.

 

 

I now have 2 flow meters so I can backpurge.

 

 

So with that done the exhaust now sits in a much nicer position, as the downpipe was almost resting on the subframe before.

 

So the next job was to remove these horrible things from my thermostat housing.

 

 

And TIG the stubs up.

 

 

And give it a coat of paint.

 

 

 

Next job was making a mount for the top of the radiator, cut and folded a piece of stainless fat bar and then bolted it in place.

Now its solid as a rock!

 

 

So next was the polycarbonate windows, the rear went in a treat, but the sides needed a fair bit of trimming to get them to fit in the recess. I used some flanged (snigger) rivets and sikaflex to hold them in.

 

 

 

[Cameron 16]

I also tidied up the wiring and got all the relative electrical gubbins back in place. I also wired in the EWP controller.

 

 

And I'd made a mount for my indicator stalk, its a little wobbly so needs some revision.

 

 

And then next up I made a centre mount for the exhaust system, starting with this little bracket.

 

 

And then welded some bar to the system.

 

 

Also fitted the damaged rear arch, I'll be repairing it in situ and then making some more moulds.

 

 

Then fitted the breathers, catch tank, brakes and brake lines and the harnesses.

 

 

 

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Flanged

 

[Cameron 16]

And finally, I had a little tinker with the map tonight and got it running pretty sweetly. It has that nice heavily cammed idle at around 1200rpm, and picks up very nicely. I haven't taken it for a drive yet, the arch needs to cure and it needs doors, but I will do tomorrow!

 

A video for your enjoyment, the sound is a bit rubbish but you get the idea.

 

 

Also, the revs pick up nice and quickly without the water pump.

Edited July 3, 2009 by Cameron

[fast_eddie 0]

Nice!

[Cameron 16]

Mapping tomorrow! Car is ready, or just about.. will hopefully get there without any major dramas, fingers crossed for some good power!

[Cameron 16]

Well, bit of a disappointing day really. I had a pretty good drive up, apart from a weak charge (12.1V) meaning it wouldn't start again if I shut it off. Got the car on the rollers and it all went pretty much downhill from there.

Gave it a quick tweak and then a power run, it made 184bhp which is pretty good right? No. It had lost out massively everywhere below 6.5K, between 15 and 25bhp compared to the original cams! And to add insult to injury the thing dropped a couple of cylinders after winding down and wouldn't start up! So, clenched, we removed the plugs and did a compression test, it all seemed ok so we started it back and it was fine.

 

So, after a bit of head scratching we retarded the cams slightly and gave it another run, it was pretty much the same. So it turns out that its just ridiculously cover-cammed. If I was revving to 8.5K then it would probably make really good power, but I'm not. I'm a bit gutted as the cams are supposed to be sprint cams with "good mid range" and a wide power band. Anyway after a bit of discussion and a call to Newman Cams I decided to just have it mapped so I could get home, then I'll be removing the cams, posting them to Newman to be re-ground and then heading back up on the 11th August hoping for a better result.

 

Also, while the cam cover was off I noticed that the exhaust cam pulley had a massive wobble! I had been warned about using these pulleys and it turns out that mine are faulty too. They're out by about 4-5mm! So I'll be on to the supplier and having it replaced.

Edited July 6, 2009 by Cameron

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Looking good, I like how you've fabricated most of your gear. TIG welding's very neat!

 

Where did you get your poly carb windows from?

[tom_m 0]

They're out by about 4-5mm! So I'll be on to the supplier and having it replaced.

 

christ on a bike, epic fail!

[Dj_mini 7]

Im not sure if you have the same supplier as me but my second faulty set i sent back were not faulty acording to them even tho i could see the wobble

[GLPoomobile 958]

Is anyone going to stand up to name and shame? I think I know who it is anyway, but surely if this is more than an isolated case then people should know who the supplier is.

[taylorspug 7]

Theres a picture of the offending items earlier in the thread...

[Cameron 16]

Yup, not going to try and hide their identity, but I don't want to drag the name of an otherwise well respected company through the mud. If you want to know what they are there are some pics a few pages back.

 

I'll take a video of the wobble, probably on Wednesday.

[edbar 6]

Didnt want to,believe it but mine is wobbling like a mother too!!

[James_R 3]

why not jsut use the early type 3 bolt std ones, no issues with wobble and pretty much free for a pair!

[Cameron 16]

Well the catcams (cough) are paid for. May as well get my moneys worth.

[grantley1988 1]

just read the whole thread. Your doing a great job pal your fabrication skills are great. Think i may have to invest in a welding book....

[Cameron 16]

Books won't help you, all you need is some basic instruction and lots of practise.

Doing an evening class in welding would be far better.