Clutch Slipping On 2nd Choke

[Guest shiftyshuffle]

When I open the 2nd choke (full throttle) in any gear, the revs climb very fast though the car dosen't accelerate. It's most noticable in 4th/5th. If there's oil on the clutch where would it be coming from and how much/easy to fix?

I'm thinking crankshaft oil seal? When accelerating on half throttle it's fine, just slips on full throttle.

 

Thanks

Rob

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

Sounds like your clutch is slipping anyway and it's just made worse by more power.

How about adjusting your clutch first?

[Guest shiftyshuffle]

Well I've just bought the car and didn't notice until I opened it up on the dual carriageway, you know there's some resistance toward the end of the accelerator's travel as the 2nd choke opens? Didn't do this on the test-drive so only just noticed. The owner said the only thing wrong as confirmed by a garage was that it's using oil; it's only covered 104k with 4 previous owners and doubt it's been driven hard. My old XS had covered 147k before I scrapped it and didn't burn any oil. So I wonder put two and two together; slipping clutch & suspect oil loss, could it be the oil seal? This seal was replaced on my other XS too when it was picked up on during a cambelt tensioner change, though this must've been the cambelt end rather than the clutch end. Peraps it's common for these seals to perish with time? That tensioner whine is also present on this one so maybe that's common too.

[Guest shiftyshuffle]

The clutch still has a high biting point so I think it's pretty good. Am I right in thinking that as the clutch becomes more worn, the pedal travel decreases?

[Guest shiftyshuffle]

*I mean the biting-point becomes lower and closer to the bulkhead?

[Jrod 7]

If it is the seal the clutch gearbox needs to come off eitherway so might aswell do the clutch at the same time.

[luggy 13]

Had a similar issue going uphill on dual carriage ways, clutch wasnt noticeably slipping but had a burning rubbery smell inside the car, checked the brakes last week, turns out the n/s/r caliper was seized.

[BERTMAN 40 1 Cars]

same symptons, cured by new clutch...

[pugdamo 111 2 Cars]

Hi mate,its either worn clutch or as you said oil on the clutch,the clutch will need to be replaced either way,if its saturated in oil you will never get it out,the common places for oil leaks are the rocker cover(very common),distributor seal or the crankshaft oil seal.

 

Hope you sort it,XS's are awesome. I miss mine

[AdamP 0]

*I mean the biting-point becomes lower and closer to the bulkhead?

 

Wrong way round. As the clutch gets more warn the biting point get nearer the end of the pedal travel, until you find that it never actually bites!

[Guest shiftyshuffle]

Ah, the biting point does seem a little high, i have to raise my foot more than usual to get it to bite!

 

So new clutch then deffo. Will garages like Mr. Clutch change the oil seal at the same time if it is perished, or would a good independent garage be better? TBH I think I'd rather find a good indie who'll treat the car well!

 

Many thanks for your replies!

Rob

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

First thing i would do is make sure the pedal is at the same height as the rest of the pedals, as iv seen loads of 205s where they think the clutch can be adjusted when it cant, its only the pedal thats adjusted, and so they tighten the cable so ,much the clutch is semi engaged, try levelimng the pedals out with the nut on the end of the cable and see if that helps

 

Paul.

[Guest shiftyshuffle]

Just had a look at the clutch pedal, it's sitting a few cm above the brake/accel which are level with each other. Do I need to bring it down level or did you mean too tight as in pedal lower than brake/accel? Is the locknut/pushrod located under the air cleaner (ie. removal of air-cleaner to gain access) ?

 

Rob