Idiots Guide To Cam Belt Change Please

[Guest V8ish]

Ok, I am reasonable when it comes to mechanics so am a little emabrressed asking this but thought I may as well get the run down before I attempt.

 

Do I really need to find TDC?

 

Do I really need to lock the top and bottom of the engine? if so how/where?

 

Many Thanks

[M@tt 77]

you just rotate the engine (22mm spanner on crank pulley bolt) till the timing holes in the crank and cam pulleys line up with the holes in the block/head. Then stick a drill bit or suitable sized bolt through said holes to keep the crank and camshaft in place whilst you undo the tensioners and swap the belt over.

 

easy as that

Edited February 13, 2009 by M@tt

[tagy 1]

If you have not done so I would get a haynes manual as it is covered quite well in there. Also search on here as there are a few threads on it.

 

I am half way through doing my 1.6 cambelt/headgasket for the first time and have not had any problems yet.. rachet spanners would be usefull though.

[M@tt 77]

PDF version of the 205 haynes manual is in my signature

[Super Josh 4]

Which engine This will allow us to give more specific advice and point out the relevant gotchas

 

 

 

Josh

[Guest V8ish]

Thanks for the quick replies standard XU. 1.9. I Like the haynes manual m@tt. Cheers

Edited February 13, 2009 by V8ish

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Its pretty easy, have a search for cambelt change as I've posted the picture before of ther correct timing pin hole to use on the crank pulley after the wrong one was used.

Hardest part is probably getting the crank pulley bolt undone but don't use the timing pin to try & undo it as you'll simpy break the web where the pin fits into. You need to jam the flywheel with a decent sized screwdriver in the bell housing or better still, get a proper locking tool for this job.

Its not that hard to do & you don't have to remove the engine mounting at all.

Graham.

[dcc 855]

DO NOT FORGET the LARGE washer when putting the headbolt in the rear, above the water pump. the waterpump housing is will be broken otherwise, and water will be everywhere.

[M@tt 77]

DO NOT FORGET the LARGE washer when putting the headbolt in the rear, above the water pump. the waterpump housing is will be broken otherwise, and water will be everywhere.

That's only if your doing the Headgasket though. You won't touch headbolts if you're only doing the cmabelt itself. It's a good point though and worth remebereing for if you ever do need to do the headgasket.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

DO NOT FORGET the LARGE washer when putting the headbolt in the rear, above the water pump. the waterpump housing is will be broken otherwise, and water will be everywhere.

Large & small washers isn't it? Just the large & it'll still hit & break the housing afaik.

 

Graham.

[dcc 855]

yeah, sorry that wasnt very clear!

 

I was a idiot and included the large washer only a year or so back, and it still cracked the water housing. so yes, small and large!

[yanto 0]

PDF version of the 205 haynes manual is in my signature

 

Cheers matt i've just got the haynes manual off you-hope you dont mind!

[Cloverleaf 1]

If the engine is in the car you'll probably find the drill bit's too long to fit in the pulleys so just cut some rubbish drill bits in half with a grinder.

[mickie 3]

doesnt 5th gear work to lock the bottom end ?

[Cloverleaf 1]

doesnt 5th gear work to lock the bottom end ?

 

No bad idea - I mean it will make the engine more difficult to turn over - providing the wheels are on the floor but not locked. Also you'll probable have the o/s wheel off.

[aCe 0]

If the bottim pulley is FT, connect a lever bar and socket to the bolt and wedge it on the floor and give the starter motor a flick over- always work when your doing driveway mechanics lol

[Masekwm 2]

Which year is the year they changed the tensioner?

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Which year is the year they changed the tensioner?

From looking on service box / parts cd the new eccentric roller & 114 tooth cambelt was fitted from 01/1992.

 

There is an 8v cambelt change guide zip file here

 

Graham.

[C_W 3 1 Cars]

doesnt 5th gear work to lock the bottom end ?

 

1st gear is a better bet (you can push the car in 5th gear)

 

But as already mentioned, dowels or drill bits can be used to perfectly time the engine.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Starter motor bolts make ideal for the timing pins if you have some spare.

 

You can even cut the thread off them if they are spare & leave the plain shank which makes then an even better pin.

 

Graham.

[Masekwm 2]

From looking on service box / parts cd the new eccentric roller & 113 tooth cambelt was fitted from 01/1992.

 

Ok, so I've got the old spring loaded tensioner.

 

Am I right in thinking (i've never done a Cambelt before) that the tensioner is undone, it springs to the belt tightening it up, I then tighten the bolt up again and to check tension I should be able to twist it slightly?

 

It'll probably make more sense once I've removed the cambelt covers

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Ok, so I've got the old spring loaded tensioner. Am I right in thinking (i've never done a Cambelt before) that the tensioner is undone, it springs to the belt tightening it up.

With the cambelt tensioned the spring(1) pushes the roller(2) against the belt pulling it tight.

To remove the tension from the belt so you can change it there are two 11mm nuts to undo & the cam (3) needs turning through 90" after you have undone the 16mm locking nut underneath the exhaust manifold to pull the tab against the spring & release the tension from the belt.

to check tension I should be able to twist it slightly?

Yes, no more than 90' but ideally less imo.

 

Graham.

[2-Pugs 57]

Ok, so I've got the old spring loaded tensioner.

 

Am I right in thinking (i've never done a Cambelt before) that the tensioner is undone, it springs to the belt tightening it up, I then tighten the bolt up again and to check tension I should be able to twist it slightly?

 

It'll probably make more sense once I've removed the cambelt covers

 

The older spring loaded one, I always thought was quite a neat design! And easier to do IMO than the later cam type, which is a right pain, seems like you need about 5 hands to simultaneously set the tension and tighten it all up How you boys do an Mi16 with two of those bl00dy cam roller tensioners, I will never know, you have my respect

Edited March 4, 2009 by 2-Pugs

[Masekwm 2]

Well I'm stuck!

 

I've undone the crank pulley bolt, but I can't remove the pulley. What am I missing?

 

Also do I leave the pins in the top for the duration?

[Tom Fenton 1,539]

Try gently tapping it with a soft mallet to get it off the end of the crank. They vary from falling off in your hand to requiring a puller to get them off.