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axnutty

Mi16 Carb Conversion

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axnutty

Here's the situation. Im house sitting a place with a garage, my 205 isnt working right and ive rescued it from where it broke down (Morrsions car park) 3 months back to this house last night. :wub:

 

Now it s got a Mi16 conversion and something isnt right, it runs fine when cold but as soon as it heats up its missis, and if it dies it wont start again. Me being me, I decided rather than sort this injection fault, ive just bought a set of Dellorto 45's, manifold, fuel pump, regulator, thackery washers, gaskets, 8mm copper pipe for fuel tank conversion, dizzy and converter. Ive also got my original 1.9 loom. So AFAIK all I need is the modified HT leads yoiu apparantly need for this conversion???

 

My big concern is though, I dont want to start ripping all the injection system out and then end up with a car on carbs that isnt working. Ive 3 weeks to sort this working evenings and weekends. How difficult a job is it? Am I missing any vital bit I havent thought of? And whats the chances of getting the timing and fueling working first off to get the engine to start and run, so I can get it to a RR and set up properly?!

 

Any advice or opnions more than welcome. Or if youre very keen, Im just outside Wetherby and your welcome to give me a hand!

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GLPoomobile

Sounds more like an ignition fault to me - amp, leads or coil - so doubt swapping to carbs is going to solve the problem.

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axnutty

I thought the coil and ign amp and leads got swopped other to 8v units anyway on a carb swop?

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Baz

Why go backwards and run it on 8v ignition then? Sounds like you're creating a problem by trying to solve one from one POV.

 

Sort it out as it is, then if you want to fit the carbs, fit them, only retaining the Mi16 management!

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ORB

To answer your question, it should take no more than a day if your decent on the spanners.

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pug_ham

Charlie, I haven't done this but there is a full guide to give you an idea of whats involved from start to finish on the main website here.

 

I think its quite common that you need to adjust the distributor body slots almost beyond maximum with a file to get enough timing adjustment so it fires up & runs. I seem to remember a few people having to do this anyway, Doof included who did the artcile I've linked to above.

 

Glad it was still there & in one piece after what you said about whee you'd left it. Three months to get it home again though is pretty bad. :rolleyes:

 

I agree with Baz though, get it running properly rather than ripping it apart to fit the carbs, the problem has to be a fairly simple thing imo.

 

Have you tried new relays, ignition amps etc?

 

Graham.

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axnutty

Whoops, knew Id seen something somewhere. Thanks Graham - suppose thats one of the shortfalls of me always going striaght to the forum not via the main site.

 

Sort it out as it is, then if you want to fit the carbs, fit them, only retaining the Mi16 management!

 

Wasnt aware you could do this! Presumably then, just retain all the ignition setup of the 16v, and just swop the fueling side? Is there anything else I'm missing there?

 

I am aware that I am skirting round the issue of fixing the car, but to be honest, even if it were working correctly Id be moving to carbs as I'm rebuilding another engine with cams, and want to stay clear of remaps. Besides I have the 45's doing nothing.

 

Ive swoped throttle bodies, coils, ign amps, water sensor & plugs are new. I know full well its going to be nothing if and when I do find it, and I havent given up entirely on it yet! But Im running out of things to swop and to no avail. I want my 205 back and am getting stuck with it!

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Baz
Wasnt aware you could do this! Presumably then, just retain all the ignition setup of the 16v, and just swop the fueling side? Is there anything else I'm missing there?

 

Yep, my 309 is exactly that, facet pump runs from where the usual fuel relay would be, & iirc the TPS is set constantly open to trick the ecu/dizzy into giving the right amount of zaps! Probably not the best way to do it and in an ideal world i'd stick it on mappable ignition in the future, but it works fappin well as it is! :rolleyes:

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Jon_Bmw

I had a problem similar to you are describing, in fact nearly identicle. It was ignition based. It turned out that the roter arm had a small burn on it near where it attaches to the cam, I presume as it got hotter it caused it to malfunction. I checked almost everything else before checking the 'engine side' of the rotor arm. I was annoyed, frustrated and relieved once I found the problem. This is what happens when you buy a half finished project from someone when it has taken them 5 years. :)

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