Xu10j2te Turbo Conversion -exhaust Question

[SOUPED 0]

Hi there,

 

I am wandering about options reguarding this, currently I have the downpipe going down away from the turbo.

 

Do I :-

 

i) Cut this pipe and re-angle it, weld on custom pipes all the way to the backbox ( I only have 1 foot of this downpipe ). And do I have to use mild steel or can you use T304 Stainless. Also is 1.2mm to thin to weld do you need thicker.

 

ii) Is it possible to find a stainless or steel flange that will bolt on to the turbo end and then weld pipes from that flange.

 

iii) Also what would be the the best diameter of pipe to use. I have a 2" pipe but think this is to thin and have read that 3" is to big when it comes to clearance under the car when it comes to sleeping policeman and lowering.

 

Thankx

 

SOUPED

[Mikey S 29 1 Cars]

with regards to pipe diameter, the general consensus, if i remember correctly, is 2.5 inch bore diameter is about perfect for the 2.0 turbo. try a search. plenty has been posted about this, and there are a few people in the projects section that have sucessfully completed this conversion, sonofsam is one that springs to mind.

 

also, theres some conflicting things about just using the backbox and running a straight pipe through. apparently running it like this can cause the seals in the turbo to fail. the only way around this is by fitting a step seal in the turbo. people who have used two boxs havnt, to my knowledge, had this type of turbo failure, so it may just be worth fitting two boxs anyhow.

 

 

hth

 

mike.

[sonofsam 5]

My personal opinion is , that the 205 downpipe is a little on the slim side when it comes to diameter for the turbo engine.

2.5" as said would be better for a standard turbo engine. You can however use the 205 flange, no need to source a ST/ST item!

and it bolts straight upto to the turbo engines exhaust flange once you've angled your downpipe/s accordingly

 

Just make sure if welding the cast iron 205 flange to ST/ST pipe that the welding is spot on, as my MIG welding wasn't great

so it cracked after a year or so, had to have it rewelded using TIG!

 

From what I read though, is it ok to taper down on bore size towards the back box end, 2.5" all the way through sounds great though imho.

 

Mild steel is of course fine to use, will probably not last as long as stainless, but that is obviously reflected in the price of the parts you use.

1.2mm wall thickness should be fine.

[SOUPED 0]

Thanks for the info guys.

 

Bit confused about the step valve. That just a blow off valve, is it.

 

Also just as temp solution could you weld stainless steel pipe to the original 406 downpipe which is cast iron I think and then reduce diameter to 2" around bulkhead area with a reducer pipe. The reason for this is that I have de-cat pipe and backbox lying around. I know this is a bit of a bodge and badger but as a temp solution would you think that this would work without damaging the turbo seals, as it's just temporary.

 

Thankx for the input guys. :B

[SOUPED 0]

Any opinions guys

[Tom Fenton 1,540]

The flange which attaches to the turbo is cast steel, you can weld either mild steel or stainless successfully to this

 

I would then get a 2.5" bend of the appropriate angle and weld this to the flange.

[bales 1]

I made my own exhaust for mine, I used a standard downpipe which was reangled at the flange which is 2 1/4" diameter, this fit perfectly into the swaged end of jetex 2.5" mild steel pipe, I have it straight through to a jetex silencer box - which is a mid box actually also mild steel - which does a great job.

 

I have had no issues at all with smoke on idle or seals in the turbo running like this and it is not even particlualrly loud. Would definately recomend jetex parts if you are making your own though.

 

I personally wouldnt bother trying to make your own downpipe when the standard part reangled does a fine job...

 

(sorry should add this is the standard 205 gti downpipe, not the donor car one, also unlike the standard 205 you want the one without the split in)

Edited February 10, 2009 by bales

[SOUPED 0]

Hi there,

 

Thanks for the input guys,much appreciated.

 

What I'm asking is can I use a de-cat pipe with a diameter of 2 inches, which would in turn be to a 2 inch backbox. This would be connected via a reducer from the 3 inch standard downpipe from the turbo. This is a bodger and badger temp solution just until I'd be able to have the 2 1/2 inch exhaust made.

 

Again thankx

 

Souped

B:

[sonofsam 5]

Hi there,

 

Thanks for the input guys,much appreciated.

 

What I'm asking is can I use a de-cat pipe with a diameter of 2 inches, which would in turn be to a 2 inch backbox. This would be connected via a reducer from the 3 inch standard downpipe from the turbo. This is a bodger and badger temp solution just until I'd be able to have the 2 1/2 inch exhaust made.

 

Again thankx

 

Souped

B:

 

 

To be honest mate, if you want to have a crack at making a quick exhaust bodge, then go for it

But I personally would wait for the right Jetex parts to arrive through the post, then you'll hopefully only have to make one exhaust.

[SOUPED 0]

Thankx Guys

 

appreciate the input

 

Thanx again Souped

[Jamal 2]

Hi!

 

I've read through this topic, I have got one question.

 

Can an exhaust shop make a a system that has got enought space between the chassis or have to hammer in the bulkhead?

 

Thank You for the answer!

[Tom Fenton 1,540]

Have a look for my XU5T build thread; in there you can see how I made my own downpipe in 2.5". it is close but it clears everything just nice and does not foul anywhere.

[Jamal 2]

Have a look for my XU5T build thread; in there you can see how I made my own downpipe in 2.5". it is close but it clears everything just nice and does not foul anywhere.

 

Hi!

 

I've looked Your thread. It's a beautiful downpipe.

Is your turbo exhaust manifold's angle the same as the original Citroen Xantia? Because I use the original manifold with the original turbo, but I had to angle near 90 degree on the downpipe. Or I've just boggled something?

[Tom Fenton 1,540]

I use the Xantia 2.0T manifold, on an alloy XU block and head. But there should be no difference in mounting angle etc.

[Jamal 2]

I use the Xantia 2.0T manifold, on an alloy XU block and head. But there should be no difference in mounting angle etc.

 

I re angled the downpipe and now it is so-so. It's just temporary.

[Jamal 2]

I use the Xantia 2.0T manifold, on an alloy XU block and head. But there should be no difference in mounting angle etc.

 

Have You extended the bottom mount or it's the standard one?

[Tom Fenton 1,540]

It is standard.

[bales 1]

I re angled the downpipe and now it is so-so. It's just temporary.

 

Why does it need to be temporary?

 

I ran mine with a re-angled downpipe as do the majority of the people who do this conversion, the only other way is to have a bespoke one made which is obviously quite a bit more expensive unless you can do it yourself.

 

Given the design of the manifold anyway I doubt that you will be losing much power from having it re-angled, I would stick with it as is, unless you are changing the turbo/manifold for something better.

[Jamal 2]

Why does it need to be temporary?

 

I ran mine with a re-angled downpipe as do the majority of the people who do this conversion, the only other way is to have a bespoke one made which is obviously quite a bit more expensive unless you can do it yourself.

 

Given the design of the manifold anyway I doubt that you will be losing much power from having it re-angled, I would stick with it as is, unless you are changing the turbo/manifold for something better.

 

My downpipe is not a good one. Just see in my my project thread

[bales 1]

To be honest I don't think that looks to bad at all assuming it is relatively smooth inside.

 

The only thing I did is that where it starts to drop down to the smaller diameter I joined my homemade exhaust to that bit so I didn't get a reduction in bore, or at leats not by as much as yours.

 

If it were me I would leave it as it is.

 

Also Tom mentioned above about not using an extended bottom mount, as his is based on a XU alloy block there are differences in mounting compared to the xu10. If you fit it without an extended lower mount the top corner of the cam cover will be very close to the master cylinder/servo if not touching.

 

As far as I am aware all the xu10c2jte conversions I have seen have used the extended lower mount, usually by about 25mm or so.

[sounds of silence 2]

only need to extend it 10mm

 

but can do them without extending by fitting a smaller servo

 

dave

[Jamal 2]

Also Tom mentioned above about not using an extended bottom mount, as his is based on a XU alloy block there are differences in mounting compared to the xu10. If you fit it without an extended lower mount the top corner of the cam cover will be very close to the master cylinder/servo if not touching.

 

As far as I am aware all the xu10c2jte conversions I have seen have used the extended lower mount, usually by about 25mm or so.

 

What are the differences in mounting?

 

only need to extend it 10mm

 

but can do them without extending by fitting a smaller servo

 

dave

 

I have got a LHD 205 So can I build up a downpipe for the iron XU10 block using the standard bottom mount?

[sounds of silence 2]

What are the differences in mounting?

 

 

 

I have got a LHD 205 So can I build up a downpipe for the iron XU10 block using the standard bottom mount?

 

 

yes can make a downpipe on the std mount its tight but still able to do them ,

 

we have done up to full 3" systems on them thats inc the downpipe

[Jamal 2]

yes can make a downpipe on the std mount its tight but still able to do them ,

 

we have done up to full 3" systems on them thats inc the downpipe

 

Thanks for the help. I'm glad to hear that, because if I have to modify the bottom mount, the IC piping needing modifications too. And it wouldn't be good news for me.