Front Seat Torc Pin Rounded?

[dk73 1]

hi,i need to take out my front seats to repair both seat bolsters,i can do the job once there out but i cant get them out,ive used the correct torc tool and got a few loose,but there are a few that some one in the past has tried but have rounded,i need some good ideas of getting them out,if you could let me know would be a bonus,regards dave.....

[Dan Ingram 1]

Get a drill bit bigger than the thread size of the bolt and drill the head off. It should leave you with enough thread sticking out so that you can get a set of grips on and get the remainder of the bolt out that way

[bensonmi 4 2 Cars]

if its the mounts at the rear,look under neath them and there is bolts holding them in going sideways,these hold the mount in.found these the other day after having the same problem and grinded the bolts out! burning half my carpet at the same time

[dk73 1]

nice 1 will have a look now,cheers bud..

[dk73 1]

just had a look inside and i cant see the bolts that you mean???

[welshpug 1,657]

dont press too hars when you're drilling the head of, you'll heat the bolt up and blunt the drill bit...

[dk73 1]

ok,thanks but i dont really want to goe down that route,there must be some other way???

[welshpug 1,657]

not particularly, there isn't enough room to get an extractor on them.

[hengti 2]

are you using your torx bits in a screwdriver or a ratchet?

[dk73 1]

hi,ive tried it on a good rachet,then realized some nice person had rounded the head a bit so a 40mm torc doesnt fit properly.ive tried other sizes up with no joy???

[Peetypug 5]

is it possible to get a hacksaw blade on them?

If you can get a groove in them then you may be able to get them out with a screwdriver.

Other than that your only way is a drill!

[hengti 2]

was just wondering if it might have rounded under a screwdriver and if using a ratchet might still help (obviously not)

 

guess you're best going with the drilling as it's not as if you can get to them to cut a slot for a screwdriver or to have a go at knocking it round. presumably the captive nut on the other end is in a box section? bit brutal, but can you hammer a slightly bigger bit into it? you just need to start it really. it might (?) be easier if you replace and tighten the other bolts so that the one that's left isn't also the supporting the whole seat (as you might do for a stubborn wheel bolt)

[dk73 1]

hi,no i cant get a blade in at all,the seats bolted down with the wieght no way of getting in,cheers anyway..

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

If you've got them moving the big problems with them is the condition of the thread outside the car which is stopping them from coming out easily.

 

Best way I've found is to get underneath to the exposed part of the threads & clean them up as best you can with a wire brush etc & run a good new M8 nut over them a few times with some copper grease on until you can wind it right up to the body by hand & then they should come out OK if the head has any shape left in.

 

You could also try locking two M8 nuts on the exposed thread & try winding them through into the car in the normal direction. Once they;'ve moved enough a set of mole grips on the head might get the bolt right out.

 

If not then drilling the head off is the best way & then lock two M8 nuts on the exposed thread under the car & wind the remains out through the captive nut on the body but the thread needs to be perfectly formed or it can ruin the thread in the captive nut.

 

Graham.

[dk73 1]

thats the m8 nuts underneath,fantastic idea,a big thank you your a legend.....

[philfingers 5]

can't picture them but can you mig an M8 nut on the top. normally welding puts heat in too, then drop a 13mm spanner on the nut and wind it out.

[swinisskill 2]

can't picture them but can you mig an M8 nut on the top. normally welding puts heat in too, then drop a 13mm spanner on the nut and wind it out.

 

if thats possible i agree definately one of the best ways to get a rounded torx out

[2-Pugs 57]

If there's enough room around the top of the bolt, get a 'drift' and a bloody big hammer smack the crap out of the bolt. Use something soft for the drift like a piece of aluminium rod so that it doesn't damage the head of the bolt. The shock of hitting it will crack the corrosion on the threads that have caused it to seize. Alternately, get a can of the freezer stuff that is used by plumbers and on electronics for fault finding, and spray it on the bolt to freeze it. Not recommended inside a car but you could then heat it up with a small blowtorch. The expansion and contraction will again help to mechanicaly free the bolt. Both these techniques have worked for me on numerous occasions when I've come across bolts that won't budge and you're just thinking about drilling them out. Just be patient and keep working at it. If you can find Plus-Gas, use some of that (its like WD-40 but seems to work better IMO).

 

Get underneath and hit it too. Just be careful not to damage the threads or mushroom the end.

 

Lastly, to get something to grip the head, I'd suggest doing as others have said and use the next size bit up. You may need to hammer it in to the bolt head and you might end up loosing that bit, but at least you get the bolt out cleanly.

 

If you can get access around the bolt head (I know seat bolts you can't), you can't beat stillsons. I recently had a brake pipe union get rounded off on my Citroen when I was replacing the flexy pipes, even though I'd used a brake pipe spanner. I bought a small (8") stillson and it gripped and removed the completely chewed up brake union with ease. If I couldn't have got that off, it would have meant cutting the metal brake pipe and replacing the whole thing.