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SAD issues
Richie-Van-GTi replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
All hoses etc are fine, there is no air leaks, the issue is the SAD lets a lot of air through when closed. - Yesterday
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Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.
Leslie green replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters
Yes its a bit strange or they just couldn't be bothered .The one on drivers side is indeed a lot bigger about 40 mm for some unknown reason ,passenger side is correct.have put a grommet in it for now. Anyway trailered it down to the mot 20 miles away and it passed , drove it 3 miles before test and 1 after and when I got home the breather pipe on the rocker cover had popped off and made a right mess ,just as well I didn't go far or it would have run out of oil..The rocker cover is powder coated and the silicon hose ptfe lined and the jubilee I used is too wide and maybe wasn't tight enough, still a good day out though ,first mot in 19 years . Co was 1.55% and Hc at idle 100 ppm , the mess lol ! The rear badges had arrived by the time I got home . I was worried about the rear brake balance and on the footbrake its 0 % difference but on the handbrake the right is well low compared to the left 1.37 v's 0.90, hopefully that will improve with driving but with the footbrake being perfect the pads must be bedded in already. -
swiftsafe changed their profile photo
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SAD issues
Thijs_Rallye replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
There is a breather hose that runs from the top of the valve cover to the T at the bottom of the oil filler hose, oil filler hose should also be free of splits and are often hard to see without removing them imo. Then there is a breather hose that runs from the bottom of the engine block to the side of the oil filler "pot" or however it is called. Another item often overlooked is the bolt that bolts the oil filler pot to the intake manifold. A pin hole is enough to throw off your idle so look closely. -
SAD issues
Richie-Van-GTi replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Half hour of heater on and heated the housing to scalding and I can still blow through it easily, no split pipes etc. it is reduced from fully open but certainly not a struggle by any means. Tried adjusting it both ways and no difference, knackered??? No difference when blocking hoses either but can't find any splits etc, seems like the oil breather just passes through the cap and gauze to the elbow on the other side if the throttle body though, normal?? -
SAD issues
Thijs_Rallye replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
If there is no change to the idle RPM after clamping the hose as Tom suggested, check for air leaks at injectors / seal surface of intake manifold and most importantly all oil breather and fillers hoses. - Last week
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SAD issues
Leslie green replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
I noticed mine was the same throttle screw fully closed and butterfly closed and still 1100 rpm , will need to check once I get mot over. -
SAD issues
Tom Fenton replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
It should shut so it passes next to nothing. Clamp the hose going to or from it and see what the idle speed does. When working properly and you clamp the hose, there should be no change in the engine speed (assuming fully warm). -
No, standard road cars okay, you just need to join a club.
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I mean I work there , do I need anything special on the car?
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It was a while ago now, but you expressed an interest here
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A what mate?
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If you're still interested there's an autosolo at Wattisham on 08/06..
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Whilst Im busy in the engine bay I've carried out a good clean and general inspection of everything. Once again I've found the Baker BM induction hose failing. Rubber cracking around the breather connections. I'm pretty annoyed with this, but also fed up with the faff of having an AFM, induction hoses and standard air filter fitted. I've decided to remove it all and fit a Green cotton air filter direct to the throttle body via a short adaptor hose. The rest of the exhaust is being collected from Jackherer, I've gone for stainless , once its all back together I will take the car for a check/fine tune at Emerald. Its actually quite nice to be doing a bit for work on it, will be nice to have it ready in a few weeks now the weather is improving.
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How well does the SAD close off? Mine still passes a lot of air but the plate looks closed inside when hot. Literally can wind the throttle bypass full closed and throttle stop fully back and it idles at 1100. Pulled the pipe off the sad and there is a stack of air going through it.
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Front Seat Slider Handle Retaining clips
Warine replied to johnyma22's topic in Body, Interior & ICE
Any help on this one would be much appreciated ☺️ -
BE3 Wilwood Clutch Slave Cylinder Modification
SweetBadger replied to LucasDunkley's topic in Gearbox & Drivetrain
Yes, I've just done exactly that - see here: -
BE3 Hydraulic Clutch Conversion - Wilwood pull type
SweetBadger posted a topic in Gearbox & Drivetrain
eec911c8-a388-4eca-8369-dbc93ce3bd25.MP4 Hi all, I’ve been having more fun with race clutches, specifically finding a way to get an acceptable pedal feel and travel. I have a single plate AP Racing 7.25 lug clutch with cerametallic clutch plate on the race car, and it has a strong diaphragm spring with a max release bearing throw of 5.5mm. This translates to a very heavy clutch pedal with low travel when using a standard clutch cable and pedal. And even after modifying the cable pull point on the pedal to increase leverage (giving longer pedal travel and an acceptable clutch pedal pressure) there is still far more tension in the clutch cable than it’s been designed for. I have found that the rubber bushes in the cable compress, and the clutch pedal travel is very inconsistent -> as the clutch / engine gets hot the pedal drops slightly and then the cable requires more adjustment to fully disengage the clutch. Basically I’ve never been 100% happy with it, often coming in off a track day or race and struggling to select 1st gear due to it needing adjustment. So I started looking at ways to change to a hydraulic clutch system - as hydraulic clutches with a reservoir automatically adjust to account for wear or any minor change to the clutch setup height as things get hot. You can also change the master cylinder size to alter the overall ratio of pedal movement / effort to release bearing movement. I have figured out a way to use a wilwood pull type slave cylinder directly mounted on the standard clutch arm, and a master cylinder connected to the standard clutch pedal with no major modifications required - in fact you could unbolt the hydraulic setup and change back to a cable setup without changing anything else. It uses one of these slave cylinders: https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=4080 The slave cylinder mounts as so using standard clutch plastic bushes: For some reason Wilwood recommend you mount the slave cylinder so that the body moves and the piston stays still, but it has to be mounted the other way round on the BE box, I can’t see a good reason why this would be a problem though. Clutch arm needs bending up slightly to accommodate the cylinder, and the gearbox housing needs a little material removing to make room for the slave cylinder body (nothing significant, just a tickle with the power file!). The master cylinder is an AP racing CP6465 https://apracing.com/race-car/master-cylinders/pull-type-trunnion-mounted/cp6465 bloody expensive new (£400 ish), but available from the US 2nd hand for £60 posted (loads of ex nascar ones available) Master cylinder is mounted directly below the pedal box on a simple bracket made up from some 25mm box section, combined with a 20mm alloy stand-off (cut at the correct angle for where it meets the bulk head), and a long m8 12.9 cap head to anchor the master cylinder, plus a cheap ebay rubber boot which goes over the master cylinder and creates a decent seal to the pedal box. Where it bolts through: Master cylinder bolted on: It connects to the standard pedal clutch cable point via an M8 Clevis fork (readily available on eBay for not much money). Note early non-hook type clutch pedal required. A custom Hel Performance hose runs where the standard clutch cable does (£35), and it works a treat: WhatsApp Video 2024-09-24 at 23.10.11_b89bbd5b.mp4 Video above shows slave cylinder movement with a 21.2mm diameter master cylinder - this would be about right for a standard clutch, but too much travel for the AP racing clutch. I ran it on a track day last week with an 18.8mm master cylinder, and it was really good. Far nicer pedal feel, and most importantly consistent over the whole day. I’m moving to a 17.3mm master cylinder next (another one just arrived from the US!) as clutch pedal travel was still slightly too short for my liking. This should give a 10% lighter pedal with slightly increased travel over the 18.8mm one. The external slave cylinder has the advantage of being easily serviceable if something does go wrong with it, and it can simply be replaced with a clutch cable for a quick fix on the side of a race track should the worse happen! Video at the top of the post (sorry can't move the damn thing) shows it working with the 18.8mm master cylinder (clicking noise is just the rubber boot - sorted with some grease on the piston) Hope this is of some use - I’d recommend this for anyone considering fitting a clutch with a strong spring which would otherwise put the cable under much more tension. -
Congrats! Epic milestone in a build like this. My longwinded engine build did its first start this winter as well and it's nerve-racking due to the yrs waiting... When will it be mapped?
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Took mine out on its 1st track outing last week after some improvements over the winter - bridgecraft roll centre correction kit, hydraulic clutch conversion. arrived at Snetterton misfiring due to suspected fuel starvation… After pissing about under the car all morning changing fuel pumps, it still wasn’t right, finally discovered a blocked fuel filter! With that removed, ran the rest of the day without a hitch! Front end even more pointy with the roll centre kit now that the wishbones aren’t pointing upward. Highly recommended upgrade if your car is significantly lowered.
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I can never understand why every single 205 door card has the window winder hole cut by default, even the most luxurious trims that had electric windows as standard. They had no problem leaving the cloth intact on the 309 but somehow no 205 was good enough for that aside from the turbo 16.
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Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.
Leslie green replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters
I removed the plastic of the back of the doorcard and wet the card and then clamped it between 2 pieces of wood for a few days , leaving it on its end so the water could drain out , this seems to have worked ok and the bad warping is gone .I fitted the doorcard after putting new plastic on and removing the lock again as the retainer behind is too tight and was pulling in the doorskin around it , a little filing on the sides of the lock and its much better now. I couldn't get the speaker cover to latch , had same bother with passenger side on to the clips so used black rear arch clips and body grommets instead as these are longer , I put some butyl behind the clips so it didn't push back and used the arch rubber washers to hold the clip on as well.I think the replacement speakers edges are not allowing the clips to sit in enough . Now its fitted I can see the window winder hole is bigger on the drivers side for some reason , I thought they should be the same , these cards were bought as mine had turned brown instead of black , I need to get them found to see if they are the same and hopefully find a winder blank or 2 still on them . Larger screws 5.5 x 19mm instead of the original 4.8 x 19mm have held the door bins on better , all but 1 is holding fine , they had bigger screws fitted before I got them as the doors are replacements and the holes were wider already.. I was going to fit rivnuts but the M4 screws I got the heads are very small and would need washers to not pull though the doorbins ,plus don't want swarf from drilling rusting inside the door Of course the tabs fell on one switch when I tried to refit it , not bad considering I've caught them in the door at least a dozen times before tying it up out the way. -
In the end I took the heat shields off, top engine mount and just made enough room. Now to decide what to buy for the rest of the system.
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samarone changed their profile photo
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Not a Peugeot but Renault Clio 197 with LSD banging when turning
pugdamo replied to pugdamo's topic in Other Model-specific Technical Questions
Thankyou, it's sort of what I expected, I know nothing about the diff type other than it's a VAL racing one. Looks like it's gearbox out time again. When I get time to do it I'll report back. -
[Body_Work] Rust Rust And More Rust!
Tom Fenton replied to Telf's topic in Body, Misc & Non-Car Work
Personally I would just drop the subframe to fit that. Doesn't take all that much doing to drop it, bottom arms, track rod ends, drop links, gear linkage, steering column lower coupling, the clip on the clutch cable. -
Not a Peugeot but Renault Clio 197 with LSD banging when turning
Tom Fenton replied to pugdamo's topic in Other Model-specific Technical Questions
Hard to really judge. If it is a plate diff then yes they do click and jump a bit on lock on dry tarmac, on gravel you see the wheels skip a bit as there isn't the grip. I've a plate diff in my road rally car and to the uninitiated it makes a horrendous noise manoeuvering at low speed. If there is no metal debris coming out when you drain the oil then perhaps its working as it should. That said, if its never done that before, and then suddenly has started doing it, after a big junction launch, then its more likely something is broken.
