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  2. Manny conny Manny conny changed their profile photo
  3. Yesterday
  4. welshpug
    looking how misaligned that lower mounting is I would be checking the chassis legs, something looks very wrong there. messaging is easy, speech bubble top right of the page, click that and then hit the box create new, or click on someone's profile and hit the message box.
  5. Bremar
    More of a general question but can people send private messages through this forum as I cant seem to find a say of doing it. They all look public? thanks Bremar
  6. Leslie green
    I was reading the lower bush should be turned through 90 degrees like you said for mi16 and gti6 conversions .Sorry I didnt fit mne this way now as the engine appears to move about quite a bit when moving off.will see how it goes when its on the road.
  7. Last week
  8. ArthurH

    Wiper Motor - make and model

    ArthurH replied to ArthurH's topic in Body, Interior & ICE

    Thanks, I wish I had bought some before this issue , I will anyway, there is always 'next time'. This particular issue is resolved - reversing the wires on pins 30 and 87 of the 'Slow' relay did the trick
  9. Arthur

    TU8 or TU9?

    Arthur replied to Arthur's topic in TU Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades

    Standard EC8 rod dimensions. Can't go back now.
  10. welshpug
    Unless they are absolutely shot, I would just refresh them with new boots and grease, even a decent brand like lobro or spidan will be under £20 for a pair Even if the outer joints are tired, if they are 1.9 type with the 6 ball Rzeppa type joint then you can replace just the joints, a lobro one will set you back under £70.
  11. Leslie green
    As the gentry is pretty rare its difficult to know what you have fitted with it being automatic , I took my 1.9 shafts apart and regreased them and changed the boots and they looked fine inside as far as I could tell. The little needles will fall out though when the cv is opened which is a bit of a faff .I suspect like most things the originals will be far better quality than what you can buy nowadays . Does yours have abs too as that further complicates things ? I wouldn't be paying £350 for a driveshaft , its probably built for rallying but still Nope. I though skf were good but I hear people having fitment problems with it seems the 1.6 ones , I know retro race and rally do the 1.9 ones .The driveshaft nut hex Is I think 24mm on a 1.9 shaft but id have to check and abs cars may use 1.9 shafts not sure.
  12. Bremar
    As indicated in the subject, I want to replace the two driveshafts on the 1.9 Gentry automatic which is regarded as having essentially the 1.6 Gti brake setup of discs on the front and drums on the back with 14 inch wheels. What the Gentry has in fact as standard factory fitting is Girling rear brake drums (same as 1.6 Gti) but with Girling front 1.9 callipers with the 35mm nut. (The 1.6Gti has Bendix Callipers) I know nothing about the driveshafts tho. I am guessing they are straight forward 1.9 Gti shafts on both sides. Does anyone know any different?? After researching good driveshafts I was thinking of buying Spooks Motorsports one off Ebay Drivers side (long) spoox motorsort £131 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185186425927?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=p9hej2TlQ_q&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=47EjaL2QTVO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY passenger side (short) pug1off £245 pair. SKF brand but in the past there have been problems noted on this site. spoox motorsports want £350 for the short shaft?? otherwise Napa £62. any other suggestions.
  13. Bremar
    Wow, thanks Leslie, that is a very interesting information ref the 2 vertical and 2 horizontal bolts holding the battery tray. I can not see the horizontal bolts but there is no movement and the tray looks firmly set against the wheelarch area. See photo. I’ve now changed all engine/gearbox mountings and there is very little difference in the angle of that lower mounting bracket. Maybe its an auto gearbox issue cf manual gearbox. Thank you Gohn too for that info on the splashguard. Happy knowing that. i have yet another question relating to driveshafts for this automatic Gentry model but ill make another post for that Thanks again Bremar.
  14. Gohn
    - what you called a rubber washer on the driveshaft is a splashguard. it should sit flush up against the diff end as you rightly suggest in your video. they usually sit flush happily but can wear down a bit and 'wander' ,so a zip tie would help - haven't seen the bottom mount bush at an angle like yours before. if any of the battery tray bolts are missing, (as leslie suggested) the tray will probably crack eventually
  15. SRDT

    Wiper Motor - make and model

    SRDT replied to ArthurH's topic in Body, Interior & ICE

    You should buy some very cheap circuit breakers from China to replace the fuses while you tinker with the circuit. Once it works just switch back to regular fuses for peace of mind.
  16. Leslie green
    Is the battery tray being held in with 4 bolts are and all the mounting holes in the tray ok and not bent out of shape , its quite easy to miss the 2 lower bolts out as they are almost impossible to see . The battery tray essentially sets the engine position in these.
  17. Pierre_b

    Xsara Vts Rack Steering Column

    Pierre_b replied to Tom Fenton's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering

    One more picture of the pas reservoir :
  18. ArthurH

    Wiper Motor - make and model

    ArthurH replied to ArthurH's topic in Body, Interior & ICE

    Typical isn't it. As soon as I posted, I could see the problem. My 'slow' relay is connecting power to pin 5 when I turn the switch off. And as Baptiste says above, that has been internally grounded. I think I just need to reverse the wires on pins 30 and 87.
  19. ArthurH

    Wiper Motor - make and model

    ArthurH replied to ArthurH's topic in Body, Interior & ICE

    I have a problem and I really hope you guys can spot what I have done wrong. As I said at the top of this post, I have already invested significant effort into a two relay design and as Peter says, that should work. I have two problems but I assume there is one root cause. Initially, I connected the battery, switch, and motor with temporary fly-leads and no relays. Everything worked as it should, even the autopark (manually connecting the slow and park leads at the moment of turning off the power). I then connected the components to my relay board. The two problems are: auto park doesn't work, and the slow relay fuse blows every time I turn the switch off. I have gone through a LOT of fuses. I can switch it to slow and the motor spins as it should, I switch to fast, the motor spins faster as it should. I can switch back and forth between slow and fast as much as I like and for as long as I like, everything works, but when I switch from slow to off, the fuse instantly blows (I have gone up to 30A fuses - they still blow). If I remove just the park wire, everything still works and the fuse doesn't blow, but of course, it doesn't auto park. This diagram shows how it is connected. I hope you will agree this is a more 'conventional' way of using relays. I have tried to draw it to match the original circuit diagram to make the comparison a little easier. Obviously, something is wrong but I really can't see it. There is (at least) one inaccuracy in the drawing. The switch is a side/headlight type switch, so the slow relay remains powered when the fast is energized. Remember, the switch works fine with no relays. I have even removed the fast relay and directly connected to power as per the original circuit diagram, which works just as well as with the relay. TiA
  20. Bremar
    I have changed both the upper engine and gearbox mounts. All went in satisfactory but that didn't change the angle of the lower engine mount. I am minded now to either: 1) bend the bracket so at least the mounting holes in the rubber will be at 90 degrees to the mounting itself. This would pull the engine towards the subframe by a few mm. Or 2) drill 2 new mounting holes and move the bracket across by say 2 cm. This would line every thing up again. anyone done anything like this? Thanks Bremar.
  21. Warine

    Sunroof Rear Rubber Strip (1990)

    Warine replied to Warine's topic in Body, Interior & ICE

    Hi, let me know when you’ve emailed me please
  22. Thijs_Rallye

    Stop light flickering

    Thijs_Rallye replied to James1975's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades

    That is kinda strange because the stop light never illuminates on it's own. It is always combined with another light afaik. (overheat switch or low oil pressure)
  23. Pierre_b

    Xsara Vts Rack Steering Column

    Pierre_b replied to Tom Fenton's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering

    Hello, Some news of my mini project. I work on my car one hour at a time every other week so progress is slow but I can't believe my last post was in june. I drove it for the first time yesterday to go to the french MOT. It was nice, the pump work only for a few miles, but while it works, it was nice ! I choose to fit a 205 PAS cooler and a pump with a detach tank that I fixed on the right side of the intake manifold. The pump is installed as on the saxo/106, on the left, in front of the gearbox, as I dont have room behind the battery as I have seen it in other setup. So, some of the problem that I encounter : - The ports on the rack are on the opposite side of a standard 205 rack - The hard line on the rack were touching the shell and needed to be bended - The heat protection over the rack was touching the exhaust manifold and need triming - The PAS cooler was too long on one side so it needed shortening (I was using the exit of the rack from the 205 rack, that exit this other way around) - The pump return was bigger than the exit of the radiator, so I could use a proper line, it was too rigid, I used a diesel line : - Like said above, the connector rod "locking washer" of the 205 does not fit the xsara rack - I striped the thread of one the antiroll bar "fixation". I need to lower the subframe to fix that, and it's not going to happen soon... Some pictures (the MOT guys were kind enough to let me take some while on their lift) : The high pressure line made with the xsara and saxo part : The pas in place : The 205 PAS cooler with the new clips supporting it with the brake line : The pump : The return line that I used, dont know if it will support the pas fluid : There is still some work (to make it work again to begin) but it's nice. Thank you all for the idea and all the info that I was able to find on the forum. I'll be glad to share more info and picture if needed. Pierre
  24. Tideee started following Stop light flickering
  25. CristianB CristianB changed their profile photo
  26. Warine

    Sunroof Rear Rubber Strip (1990)

    Warine replied to Warine's topic in Body, Interior & ICE

    davidwaring7@hotmail.com
  27. PhilNW
    Dodgy wire/connection somwhere Wiring diagram here (you will have to do some simple translation) Full set here http://prepparts.free.fr/docs/doc2ter.html
  28. James1975
    no, just the stop light that flickers
  29. Thijs_Rallye

    Stop light flickering

    Thijs_Rallye replied to James1975's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades

    Are there any other lights coming on at the same time as well? I.e. the red corner in the oil pressure gauge?
  30. James1975
    only does when it when at speed like 60 or 70 mph stop light flickers, oil pressure all good, not losing coolant, a bit of a weird one if im honest. all gauges sitting normal when running Temp issue? please any advice would be very grateful
  31. SRDT
    At what pressure are they supposed to open? You probaby don't want them to open at idle.
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